HLD4040NS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Remove front shields on bottom of dishwasher. Shut off dishwasher and electricity. Unplug electric connection. Unscrew brace holder screws on front. Remove clamped on hose at back of valve. Unscrew valve from copper water pipe. Screw on new valve to copper water pipe. Put on clamped hose. Screw on bracket. Plug in electric connection.

Laid on floor remove two small bolts with nutdriver,loose water line with wrench,remove other water line with pliers.Remove water inlet valve and replace with new one

Wow, could not have been easier. The suggested repair stated that the water inlet valve was the problem 93% of the time. And, it was spot on. It was the exact same replacement part. And, once installed, it worked like a charm. I have bookmarked this website, and will use it for all future appliance repair. I simply could not be more pleased. It was a breeze. Thanks,

It took no time at all to identify where the water was leaking from. I accessed a parts breakdown illustration of my dishwasher, identified the part, ordered it and three days later my leak was fixed. Hose and water inlet valve assembly was easy to swap out. I estimate I saved myself about $150.00 by doing it myself.

We tried cleaning the sprayer by unclogging the spray holes but it didn't last very long. I decided to see what it would cost to replace the piece. I have used this site before and love how easy it is to find the part you need. The sites have good pictures so you feel very good that you are ordering the correct part. They also have helpful suggestions for problem.. I ordered the part and it arrived two days later and we installed it right away...I started the dishwasher for a test run and forgot how loud it use to spray..The prices are also great just a service call from a repair man would of cost me triple what I got my new part.

Remove the eight door screws. Pull plastic inner door panle off. Disconnect wires for the detergent door opener (mark them first). Clean inside the door and the seal area on the washer. Slide out bad seal, slide new one in. Reinstall. I went to home depot and replaced the rusting screws with stainless screws.

pulled switches flicked leaver worked when itwanted to and not every time. I removed then shorted then rechecked everthing worked. got on line ordered parts good price fast service fixed 30 min when they came in saved money.Thank God! 20.00 fix instead of 200.00 +

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!

Turned off power and water to dishwasher, removed kick plate to dishwasher, removed mounting bracket from frame rail of dishwasher, unplugged valve then used pliers to remove spring clamp on rubber line and used box wrench to remove water line attached to brass connection. There was a lot of calcium build up around screen and rubber O-ring and cleaning that may have fixed it but pulled off anyhow. One problem I had is that the old part would not come apart where the L-joint screwed into the collar that attaches to valve on old setup to allow new one to be bolted to it. So I looked at putting new valve on the old mounting bracket. That did not work after I got it apart as the new bracket is flat while the old is counter sunk...and the new valve has a larger footprint and would not fit flush to seal. So back to work bench and put valve in vise as the threads had plumbers pipe cement it looked like and they were tight. Got the two joints apart...cleaned with wire brush...sanded down mouth of brass collar that fits against O-Ring of new valve to make sure clean. Put teflon tape on all threads and tightened it all back up. Reconnected, plugged in, mounted to dishwasher and ran a full cycle with dishwasher pulled out so I could monitor any leakage from beginning. All is good...so slid back under sink and ran load with dishes...noticed water on floor. Freaked out...pulled it all out and valve was dry. I forgot to clean up the little bit of water that came out of lines when disconnected first time for repair... :) All is good now.

The quiet power 3 has the heating element in the back, so remove the screws holding the unit in place. Remove the bottom cover and disconnect the water inlet pipe, (after turning off the water of course). Discard the copper tubing if applicable, and pull dishwasher out until you can tilt it forward. Unsrew the plastic nuts and remove the wires for the element. Test the old one to make sure that you need to replace it. When sure of the problem reinstall in the reverse order. Replace the copper with stainless steel braided line and test.

Shut off water, disconnect drain line from disposer. Remove dishwasher from wall and remove water feed line. Unplug or disconnect power to unit. Remove upper and lower dish racks as well as lower water sprayer bar, and filters. Lay dishwasher down on backside (make sure to catch water with bowl). Disconnect pump connector with nut driver and replace. Stand dishwasher back up and reverse removal process

I firts turned off power to the diswasher through the circuit breaker panel. I removed the black tray at the bottom front of the dishwasher, removed the two screws attaching the water inlet valve, detached inlet and outlet water hoses as well as the eletric connector. I removed fitting from the old valve and installed in the new valve using some teflon tape. Installation is the reverse of the removal.

Before you due anything else...remove the water inlet valve, remove the 4 screws holding the water inlet coupling to the valve housing, remove the nylon filter (tight fit), and clean the debris from the filter. Re insert the filter, reassemble the valve housing and check for leaks. Clears most water flow problems.

took the front covers off, used om meter as suggested after disconnecting the wire plug. discovered infinity, so as suggested, determined the valve defective. Ordered over the new valve from this company. After it arrived, took the old valve off by removing it from the bracket. Used the pliers to take the hose off, then unscrewed the supply hose by usung the adjustable wrench. Took the old valve to my shop vise to hold it firmly, then unscrewed the fitting, wrapped the tape suggested and installed it on the new valve. Took it back to the dishwasher, screwed the supply hose on, slipped the hose on and the clamp, turned on the water to check for leaks. Found non, so installed the valve on the frame, turned on the power and checked for filling. Itfilled fine and operated like it was supposed to. Put the front covers back on, and enjoyed praise from wife!!!

the repair would have been much easier but the screws from the old inlet valve did not match the size of the holes on the new valve.