SUF2100E*119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the video on the website - seriously easy. took me 5 minutes and solved the problem!

took off old part, put on new part and that was not the problem.

Removed back screen, screwed out old piece, and replaced. Easy.

Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

We went to the Part Select site and described the problem and they recommended a new piston and nut assembly and even provided a video on the installation. The only difficulty was removing the old piston and nut assembly which was corroded and broke off during removal. Once it was out installing the new part was very easy. And best of all the dishwasher completely drains. We had an estimate of $150 for a repair house call which would probably have resulted in another house call to actually install the part. With Part Select we received the part the next day, spent only about $18 and fixed the dishwasher in 24 hours--what a great experience!

2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.

It is so easy and simple! Just removed the old part ( Piston and nut assembly), which is at the back of the dishwasher(inside, behind the spray arm and the heating coil) with bare hands. It needs a little push and turn , just like you removing a old stuck nut. One you remove the old nut assembly, replace it with new one. Just hand tightened is enough. Ran the dishwasher and voila...it works like a new one. No more water collection at the bottom! All it took is 10 mins + 12 dollar part + 7 dollar shipping.

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

After some investigation on the internet and partselect.com, ordered and replaced the piston and nut assembly inside the back of the dishwasher and the problem was fixed.

Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!

looked up the model no. on partselect web site and they discribed several diagnoses for different problems.they gave a 19% probability for a bad valve and nut. i removed the cover and the nut valve and the valve looked pretty bad. i ordered a new part and delivery was very good.i replaced the part and that took care of my problem. i was very happy with the whole repair.

Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.

Unscrewed 4 screws from the back, bottom of the rack area which hold the cover. Twist out the old Piston and Nut which is threaded to fit securely (needed some elbow grease to get the old one out). Twist the new part in and place the cover back in place with the 4 screws. Done. Dishwasher works like it was brand new. Cleanest dishes in the country... ;)

with a dishwasher. Someone had 'packed' the silverware basket and there wasn't one in my dishwasher! Ordered one from here, when it arrived, opened the box, opened the dishwasher and placed it in the correct place. Closed dishwasher - DONE!