402070 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old seal, cleaned behind it, and then put the new seal in. We saw a video on You Tube on how to do it. Partselect also sent instructions on a e mail with the order receipt. We enjoyed working with you guys. Your customer service representative was very nice and accurate in sending out the part. All went as she said it would. Thanks!!

Popped the axle on to the wheel, then snapped it on to the lower drawer - done!

Just snapped studs and wheels together and put them into place.

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

Popped out Old Roller, put in new one, pushing it together with a pair of pliers.

My only regret is that i didn't check the other side of the dishwasher... the other roller was broken also, and now i have to pay 5.95 shipping & handling for a .29 cent item

Check all your rollers before you buy just one!!!!!

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

Literally 1 minute to replace. They are perfect and an easy fix for split tongs on the wine glass holders

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

Pulled washer out. Found water inlet valve in lower left. Shut off power and water. Replaced valve with new.

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

Just like the video and replaced it

Followed the instruction video on your website. It was accurate and valid. The repair should have taken 15 mins., instead one of the screws holding the dispenser was frozen. Tried DW-40, and liquid wrench. Neither worked because the screw was in plastic.Finally got out the Dremel and cutting wheels. Had to cut away enough of the unit until I could get at the screw (it was the center bottom one). Sliced through some more of the housing, then cut a notch in the screw head deep enough so I could apply enough pressure with a flat blade screwdriver to open it. After that things went as smoothly as could be expected.A bad design and cheap materials.