GDF620HGJ4BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Had to trouble shoot to isolated the true fault condition. Checked heating element was good
Researched symptoms on YouTube
Removed and inspected float switch part
Ordered and replaced part.

Slid out old part and slid in new part!!! Yup that easy!!!!

Part was incorrect Compare that to GE site saying number on both ports to different parts try to return was half the course of what I paid ridiculous So apparently I'm stuck with it Check GE site you'll see the port is different from what your sound but the numbers are exactly the same No clips to support the utensil tray

Replaced old rack.

the part is OEM and fits like a glove. No worries. There is a minor variation in design and is not like for like design but fits exactly per specs and works. I have been looking for this part for years now. Thank you for PS for maintaining the inventory.

First, drain as much water as possible using a shop vac or siphon. Unscrew two plastic lugs and food screen to release the metal *disk* found inside the dishwasher at the bottom. Then, remove the grey retainer ring found under the food screen.
Using the nut driver, remove two screws from the white plastic retainer ring at bottom the flood switch.
I used pliers to grip the ring to take it out.
**Dry everything in the "well" where the flood switch sits.**
Now, remove the bottom front cosmetic panel. This exposes the underside of the appliance. Locate the flood switch wire underneath and gently pull down the small black plastic tab which holds the wires in place. This allows more movement to make your job a little easier!
Pull up on the flood switch and simply unplug it and swap in your new switch! Replace everything as you found it, don't over-tighten your screws, and make your kids load that sucker! Hope this helps, and have a beautiful day!

My heating coil was not working so naturally I thought I needed a new coil and ordered one accordingly. During the time it took to ship to me, I did more research and people suggested testing the coil with and ohmmeter for resistance as often times the coil is fine and it is the flood switch that is the problem. I got an ohmmeter and checked the old coil and it returned readings that were just fine (btw 15-30), so I returned the coil and ordered this flood switch.

Anyone reading this debating between buying the coil and switch can save themselves a lot of trouble/time/money by removing the coil and testing it first.

The installation of the flood switch is fairly simple. There's a great video on Youtube for it (titled "GE Dishwasher not Drying Dishes - How to Replace Bad Flood Switch:), so I won't walk through the step-by-step on it.

However, one word of advice is to be careful when installing so that you don't let the o-ring on the switch slide down the connector/wire once you connect them or you'll get a slow leak into the catch pan at the bottom.

Also, if this if your first repair on a GE Dishwasher then get to know the unit while you have it pulled out. It won't be your last repair based on my experience...

Performed all checks on youtube...water coming in, course and fine filter cleaned, drain pump working (heard it come on and no water present and cycle end). Swapped water inlet valve bc it was the cheapest poss fix $19. No luck. Ordered circulation pump and motherboard. Swapped pump, very easy with machine out and turned on its back. Temp reinstall and ops checked good. Contacted Partselect for return slip, emailed immediately and sent thru post office.

The part has been sitting at a FedEx place for over a week and no one answers my emails about why. This is all I get: "No scheduled delivery date available at this time."

Checked issue on line. After getting the code I watched several YouTube self help sites. I followed the instructions from video provided by Drewin’ Around. He made a very easy to follow video and once I received the part, rewatched it and fixed the issue within 15 minutes. It took longer for me to fine my tools.

YouTubers are awesome!

I replaced the Flood Switch Part Number: WD21X10519.
I found that be removing the bottom front cover under dishwasher door, there was a small black plastic clamp holding up the wiring cable. By disconnecting the clamp, it gave me a few more inching of wire inside the machine, which made disconnecting old flood switch easier. It also help in installing the new flood switch. Then finally i reinstall the clamp cable under the machine to finish the job.

Followed a u-tube video to remove dish wash door assembly to get to the control board . Not too hard if you are mechanically inclined.

The Mid Spray Arm Assembly was not spinning due to a dish that was in placed the dishwasher that was too high and hitting the arm. When it spun until it broke the center shaft. Replacement was easy. After removing power I pulled the upper tray out and removed the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly by unsnapping it from the tray. I twisted off the broken spindle of the damaged arm assembly from the Conduit Mid Tiered Assembly and inserted the new arm and gently pushed it until it snapped into the Mid Tiered Assembly. Reinstalled the assembled parts by snapping into the tray making sure it was centered.

Removed the door to get to the UI control panel. Followed the instructions to set the jumpers to my particular model and put it back together. Fixed the issue and worked perfectly.

Diagnosing was probably the most difficult, as I am an experienced electronic tech for 40 years. through research i found that the schematics and service paperwork was included with my dishwasher mine was located in the front left corner of the frame behind the kick panel. These service instructions were ok for guide but not really helpful in troubleshooting this fault. I found online the pinout output voltage from the main control board needed to be checked. however, this is not very easy to get a proper reading safely in such an awkward position. I ultimately scored the insulation back enough to get a set of clip leads and connect to my meter and obtain a reading. In my case there was voltage. I ordered the board and it arrived quick and installed. I cut and spliced together the wires I scored to make a reading but added an extra length of wire for service testing in the future.