GDF620HGJ4BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Robert from CASEVILLE, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10490
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dishwasher would not sense door was latched
Super easy repair, just removed the old latch and replaced it with the new one.
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- Customer:
- Jake from SACRAMENTO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The heating element on our dishwasher burned the lower spray arm, melting it in 2 pieces
Simply unscrewed the old damaged arm and screwed the new one on, took less than a minute
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- Customer:
- Jason from TULARE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD12X32798
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Detergent module latch won’t close, latch broken
-Disabled power.
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
-1/4” nut driver to take off kickplate.
-Unplug wires harness to door
-Dismount dishwasher from cabinets and pull out 4-6 inches
-uncouple spring pulley from door hinges.
-Open dishwasher door about 4 inches and pull out and up to remove
-Lay door down and remove 4 -T20 star bolts and two 1/4” bolts from door hinges(the door hinge has four bolts, but only remove one from each hinge that connects to the inner plastic door)
-remove vent cap and push up on interior plastic door casing to separate outer and inner door.
-Unbolt the soap dispenser module via 1/4” bolts and replace with new module. (be sure to line up module and gasket properly, installing 1/4inch bolts crossways, slowly tightening each bolt for a perfect seal).
-Reassemble the inner/outer doors and reattach to dishwasher in reverse order.
Be sure to plug the doors electric harness and kickplate.
-Plug the dishwasher back in and run it through a test.
I recently replaced the user interface, which took about 30 minutes. A week later replaced the soap dispenser module, which took 20 minutes. Disassembling the door was easier the second round.
I would read this project very easy for somebody with technical skills and easy with no prior skills
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- Customer:
- Paul from PLAINFIELD, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD26X23258
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Stopped circulating water from sprayer arms
The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
Good luck! You can do this :)
1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)
2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.
3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.
4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)
5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.
6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)
7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.
8. Carefully slide out the unit.
9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.
10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.
11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.
12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.
13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.
14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.
Good luck! You can do this :)
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- Customer:
- Mary from KINGSVILLE, MO
- Parts Used:
- WD19X25187
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Drain pump quit draining
My granddaughter's fian'ce actially replaced the pump.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.
He pulled the dishwasher out, tipped it over and quickly and easily replaced the pump.
I had already snapped the converter on to the pump so it was ready to hook up. I had read previous messages that this part had a converter.
After putting the washer back in place we set it on a light wash to test it.
It went very well.
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- Customer:
- Robert from ST AUGUSTINE, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10490
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
washer would nt ru it beeped 3x and flash start lite
Looked upm the problem it said door wasn.t closed so cause was the door latch. put in the new one no change so I bought a new dishwasher
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- Customer:
- Earl from WINCHESTER, TN
- Parts Used:
- WD19X25187
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
Water would not drain.
Unhook water line . Turn off power to dishwasher. Remove dishwasher from under counter. Lay it on its back. Loosen clamps on drain pump and remove pump. Install new drain pump and tighten clamps. Be sure to put hanger in the hole on the pump. Very easy job. Reinstall water line and put dishwasher back under counter. Turn on power to dishwasher. Go to go.
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- Customer:
- David from Hooksett, NH
- Parts Used:
- WD28X26099
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Dish rack prongs rusted and broke off
It wasnt exactly the right lower dish rack to hold silverware holder. Instead of the trouble of sending it back we will use it. Silverware holder takes up some of the space for other dishes.
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- Customer:
- Kim from BLACKFOOT, ID
- Parts Used:
- WD19X25187
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Drain pump needed replaced
The only directions that came with the new pump and filter, was how to replace the filter. I had to find a You Tube video to show me where the drain pump was located., and the way to get to it. I also had to figure out how the new pump was hooked up electrically, since the new pump did not work with the plug in on the machine.
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- Customer:
- Joseph from KENNEDALE, TX
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Loud banging sound when dishwasher was on.
The base of the spray arm literally just spins a little bit into place like a luer lock. Takes two seconds to replace.
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- Customer:
- Teresa from DETROIT, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10519
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Dishwasher did not dry dishes
Followed directions on YouTube
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- Customer:
- Susan from MASON, OH
- Parts Used:
- WD28X26099
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Rusty Lower Rack
Removed lower rack, slid in new Rack.
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- Customer:
- CESAR from SAN PEDRO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD21X24900C
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Front panel lights non-operational - no lights - no response
Disconnect power breaker. Remove the internal dishwasher plastic rack trays. Remove kick plate and kick plate insulation. Disconnected electrical connector plug from power board. Remove junction box cover and disconnected electrical wires (hardwired model - not typical electric plug model). Pull dishwasher out about 6"-8". Disconnect user interface cable from power board. Remove door. Follow electrical trouble shooting to determine that power board was getting power to the user interface board but lights still non-operational (including START button). Remove internal door panel to get to interface board and replace it with a new one. I decided to replace the power control board with a new one as well because I had ordered it prior to determining that it was the user interface board (module) that was bad. Reversed the installation, reconnected everything. Turned the power. Put the plastic trays back in. Tested the unit (empty and loaded) and, it worked.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from SEBRING, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD22X33498, WD22X33499
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
All 3 spray arms were stoped up.
Replaced all 3 spray arms in less than 10 minutes.The top one came in two pieces,the mounting bracket and the arm.Snap the bracket on the dishwasher first , then attach the arm to the bracket.
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- Customer:
- louis from FRANKFORD, DE
- Parts Used:
- WD21X10519
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
dishes were not dry at end of completed wash cycle
Followed the instructions on the video, it was pretty straight forward. It was helpful to know what to expect before hand like removing accumulated water in the drain before removing the flood switch so as not to have that water drain under the dishwasher. Knowing to have a nut driver with magnetic tip was helpful in removing and reinserting the screws. all in all it was pretty easy repair.
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