GSD4911X00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

installed part on inside end of rail. no tools needed. original part wouldn't stay on rail. finished in 2 minutes
wife happy

Inserted wheels on socket and then into the dishwasher rack.

We knew roughly how we needed to put the cap on the rail, but our technique of simply forcing it in the end of the rail wasn't working. The trick is to bend the moveable part of the plastic cap inward while you're sliding it in, and it clicks right into place.

The location of the cap we were replacing was the upper back left, which made it a little tricky to reach back there and insert it, especially for a bigger guy like myself. We took the bottom rack out and my smaller wife was more easily able to lean in the dishwasher and reach back there to insert it.

Disconnect water line and screws (2) holding dishwasher under cabinet, and clamp for wastewater line. Pulled dishwasher out, turned on its side, and removed pump. Disassembled pump per instructions (great instructions) and installed new parts. Reversed to reassemble and except for a loose clamp that leaked (I tightened) it went well. Just under 1 hour.

Removed the lower rack and installed new wheels with clips

First I opened the package and screwed the new dispenser cap into place.

The newly purchased wheels have a little different design and could be installed in a matter of few seconds.

Read directions. They were poorly drawn. Set them aside. Opened up unit on December 26th. I made careful observation of the wiring, two hoses, one metal bracket, the hose two clamps, and then proceeded. Instructions said 1 to 2 hours, to complete. Ha Ha, perhaps if you've done it before. It was actually really closer to four hours. When done, it worked perfectly. The best part, my wife said: "This was the best Christmas present ever!" That made my day! Dishes are clean again, just like new! Thank you: www.PartsSelect.com.

stripped old gasket from around the door (easy part)

instructions said to remove two screws from the bottom of the door to allow you to fit the gasket around the bottom

this was not too easy as you cannot get see the inside of bottom end of the door
I ended up removing the other door screws and this allowed me to fit the gasket quite easily

one tip tape the door lock immediately after removing screws as the lock assembly is not attached to the door

final step was to make sure the gasket was seated all around as my first wash had a slight lead

by pushing on the door after the door was locked cured the problem

Removed dishwasher, took off motor, and ordered part. It was delivered in a timely fashion (3 days). Determined which directions to follow. Used screwdriver to hook up motor. Put dishwasher back into cabinet area, made sure there were no leaks before fastening the dishwasher in place. Took about 1/2 hour to complete process. Very satisfied.

Went to repair parts on troubleshooting and found check valve assembly to be most common problem. Went to parts diagram to locate assembly and found it somewhat confusing as to exact location. Ordered part(s) on percentage as the problem. Received part next day (great)! Pulled dishwasher out and found I did NOT need to do so to replace check valve which is replaced without having to remove dishwasher. The gasket replacement was not necessary as it seals sump area from bottom of dishwasher and not the valve as it appears on the parts diagram. It took about 2 minutes to replace valve itself and it was the cause of the problem.

First, I drained the water from inside the washer and removed it from under the sink. I wasn't sure if I had a clog in the drain line, so I dissasembled the drain under the sink and cleaned that as well. While cleaning under the sink my wife found her $4000 dollar ruby that fell out of her mothers ring a couple weeks earlier. It must have dripped out of the trap while I had water draining everywhere. Put drain back together and moved on to the dishwasher repair. Parts were easy to install after laying the dishwasher down on its front to access the bottom back side. Hooked everything back up and slid it back under the countertop and away it went. Had one small leak after running (water in line wasn't tight enough). A twist with a pair of pliers and that was resolved.
Fast shipping by the way! I paid a little more for the exit washer than I wanted to, but with shipping only from one source and delivery of parts at the same time made downtime as little as possible. I'm sure I saved $100 dollars or so by using this website for parts and tech info. And recovered a precious stone to boot.

Took inner door panel off and cleaned and replaced gasket.

REPLACE CONTROL BOARD - Turn off circuit breaker. Take out lower rack. Remove inside door panel (seven Phillips screws). Hold outside door panel (control board location) in place with bungee cord. Remove push lever (two screws) to facilitate removal of control board. Disconnect control board connectors (five, I think). Remove old control board (two screws and plastic clips). Install new control board (clips, connectors, and two screws). Re-install push lever (two screws). Re-install inside door panel (the main contol lever alignment is a little tricky), seven screws. Remove bungee cord. Put lower rack back in. Turn on circuit breaker. Test dishwasher. Worked perfectly, just like new. Normal amount of water in bottom. "Dry" cycle normal. "Clean" light comes on and stays on until door is opened i.e. normal operation. "Delay" feature also works normally. Dishwasher may last a few more years. Cost of control board: $120 inc. shipping.

I just plugged in the model number and a screen came up that showed all the part numbers that made up the model. picked out the parts that we needed and ordered it and within 2 day we had the new basket that we needed for our dish washer.
the service and ease was better that going to the appliance store and picking up the basket.
I was very happy the the service.
Donald Brown