GMB670E* General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

No story just locate partselect.com on internet, select part and order. Part received in a timely manner in great condition. Thanks

Once I found out where the pison was it was easy. I removed the far back screen that runs across the entire back of the inside of the dishwasher. There was four screws to remove this screen. This exposed the Piston assemply which is threaded, so you just twist it off like a big nut. It was easy to tell that the rubber on the piston was not sealing and needed to be replaced.

follow instructions found here, with a little help from part diagram. Initially removed the sump cover but then removed the cover at the back of tub. This uncovered the Piston assembly and the replacement was a snap. Dishwasher now works well and actually cleans the dishes. Also did I mention my parts arrived the day after I ordered even though I used standard delivery. This site rocks.

Followed the directions from the website and removed the plastic screen from the back of the washer (4 bolts). The Piston and Nut assembly was easliy removed with a few turns, popped the new one in, and re-installed the screen. Everything works great.

Assistant helped me take apart unit, assumption on issue was correct, part was ordered and showed up 3days later. I installed and all seems fine. I do question what would have happened if the deduction was incorrect. The assistant was very patient and clear with his instructions. A good experience!

removed piston in filter and replaced. the check valve had come apart and was not sealing

Replaced the Piston and Nut Assembly, located inside the dishwasher under the screen at the back, by unscrewing the old one and replacing with the new - Works great now!!

First I removed the four screws from the screen/cover located at the back of the dishwasher. You will notice a mesh screen in the center of this cover. The check valve is under this cover midway between the sides. The check valve is unscrewed counter clockwise. I had to use a pair of pliers to start turning the valve. There are two "ears" on the top of the valve. You will see a rubber cone shaped piece that should completely cover the opening when the plunger is depressed. In my case the rubber was almost completely gone allowing water in the drain hose to return to the dishwasher after the drain pump stopped. The new check valve threads back into the opening and should be finger tightened. Replace the cover/screen and you should be good to go.

2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.

Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

We went to the Part Select site and described the problem and they recommended a new piston and nut assembly and even provided a video on the installation. The only difficulty was removing the old piston and nut assembly which was corroded and broke off during removal. Once it was out installing the new part was very easy. And best of all the dishwasher completely drains. We had an estimate of $150 for a repair house call which would probably have resulted in another house call to actually install the part. With Part Select we received the part the next day, spent only about $18 and fixed the dishwasher in 24 hours--what a great experience!

It is so easy and simple! Just removed the old part ( Piston and nut assembly), which is at the back of the dishwasher(inside, behind the spray arm and the heating coil) with bare hands. It needs a little push and turn , just like you removing a old stuck nut. One you remove the old nut assembly, replace it with new one. Just hand tightened is enough. Ran the dishwasher and voila...it works like a new one. No more water collection at the bottom! All it took is 10 mins + 12 dollar part + 7 dollar shipping.

I removed the old cap and put on the new cap.

After some investigation on the internet and partselect.com, ordered and replaced the piston and nut assembly inside the back of the dishwasher and the problem was fixed.