GMB930JB119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- paul from woodbridge, VA
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Water would not drain after cycle
After reading some of the suggestions I couldnt beleive it was that simple and easy. So I ordered the piston and nut assembly, installed it in less than 15 min. and after a rinse cycle test the problem was fixed. Thank you all for this wonderful site.
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- Customer:
- Bradley from Summerville, SC
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Dishwasher would not drain
Logged on to this site. Removed 4 nuts at the very back. Removed the piston & nut assembly. The rubber piece had worn out. Reversed the process and it runs like new.
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- Customer:
- Wendy from Kingman, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Dishwasher was not draining
I removed the basket in the back of the dishwasher and unscrewed the plastic piece under the basket. I quickly screwed in the new one and now my dishwashe ris working perfectly.. We came so close to buying a new dishwasher and I am so happy I found the website describing this part. THANK YOU!!!
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- Customer:
- Laura from New York, NY
- Parts Used:
- WD28X265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
missing silverware basket
part came in the mail and fit the missing space perfectly. no complaints. easy fix.
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- Customer:
- Ken from Central Square, NY
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
Rubber piston on check valve was almost completely gone. Water backed up finally to the point of overflowing on kitchen floor.
Simply followed the instructions for the part on the part page. One thing that helped taking out some screws was to remove a couple of the brackets that hold the heating element and move it slightly. I would suggest cleaning all of the gunk out of drains and clean all holes in the screens using a toothpick, etc. Be careful not to overtighten the nut for the next time you have to do this!
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- Customer:
- james from ham lake, MN
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
did not pump out all the water before drying
looked up the model no. on partselect web site and they discribed several diagnoses for different problems.they gave a 19% probability for a bad valve and nut. i removed the cover and the nut valve and the valve looked pretty bad. i ordered a new part and delivery was very good.i replaced the part and that took care of my problem. i was very happy with the whole repair.
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- Customer:
- Clifford from Saint Louis,, MO
- Parts Used:
- WD28X265
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
multiple rust spots on the old rack
Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.
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- Customer:
- Gary from Gatlinburg, TN
- Parts Used:
- WD24X214
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
I saw water on the floor and investigated to see that it was actually running down the side of the dishwasher. Further investigation and removeal of a cover on top shwoed the water was leaking from the hose that runs through the top of the dishwasher.
I looked on Part select at the model number of the dishwasher. I looked at the diagram of the diswassher and the hose. I read some of the repair stories. And became sure the upper hose was my problem and was armed with the ability now to fix my machine. Thanks PartSelect
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- Customer:
- Harry from Chicago, IL
- Parts Used:
- WD24X214
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Socket set
Hole in top of hose caused water to leak
First, I unscrewed the bottom panels and then I unscrewed the two screws that secure the dishwasher to the counter. I would advise one to unplug the machine first, but I couldn't find where the unit is plugged in, so I fixed it while it was connected to power. Then I pulled the dishwasher out far enough that I could access the hose located on the left side. Then I unscrewed two screws which secure the upper spray arm, and removed the top part of the broken hose. I learned the hard way that I should have removed as much water as possible prior to making the repair. So water started coming out of the hose. I proceeded to drain the machine via the hose into a bucket. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the screw that fastens the lower part of the hose to the pump--I'm assuming it's the pump(?). Getting the top part of the hose through the hole took a little effort, but the rest was easy. I was amazed at how quickly PartSelect got me the part: early on the day after I ordered and I did not pay for overnight shipping!
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- Customer:
- Fritz from KELLY, NC
- Parts Used:
- WD24X214
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Water leak
Overall easy-peasy. The hardest part was getting the dishwasher out from under the counter, once out the problem was self evident, the rubber fitting ( end of hose to dishwasher) was deteriorated. The insulation blanket was water soaked also. The actual time to replace the hose was less than 30 min. but the total job took 3 days, ordering and delivery of part( PartSelect 2 day service) and drying of insulation blanket. The rubber fitting into the washer is tight, I used some Vaseline. Have plenty of towels ready when any hoses are disconnected, they are all full of water. Good luck .Cheers Fritz
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- Customer:
- lawrence from lexington, NC
- Parts Used:
- WD15X93
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
Old valve had hairline crack and leaking
2 screws to remove valve, turn water off, detach water line, detach plastic water outlet line, and put the new one on, reattaching everything in reverse. Electrical hookup was just two wires to solenoid. Slipped them off and back on new valve solenoid. Some difficulty getting support screws back in.
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- Customer:
- Syl from Pagosa Springs, AL
- Parts Used:
- WD15X93
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dishwasher would not turn on the water
took off old part, put on new part and that was not the problem.
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- Customer:
- Valdis A. from Louisville, KY
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Water on bottom of DW does not drain & Wet/dirty dishes
Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.
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- Customer:
- Robert from Tustin, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD24X10018
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
C1 and C2 Error Codes, then Leaking
Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.
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- Customer:
- Susan M from Fairview Park, OH
- Parts Used:
- WD24X214
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Upper Spray Arm Water Supply Hose Deteriorated
The Prep Work and putting the dishwasher back in place took up most of the time. The actual replacing the upper spray arm hose only took a couple minutes. The dishwasher was leaking. We pulled it out by removing the bottom front cover plates, unscrewing the top lip screws from the counter, loosening the 4 legs with a 1 inch wrench and carefully pulling the dishwasher out, placing cloths on the leg bottoms to avoid scratching the floor. Once out, we watched it run and could see water gushing out of the top hose. The hose was covered in a sticky glue all over the top. This was hard to remove, but we found scraping the glue off, then cleaning with fantastick and a brillo pad removed most of the glue quickly. We then saw the top hose has a lip that was GONE. The hose ends at the bottom of the dishwasher attached with a metal screw on clamp- very easy to remove. Once the top was glue free, we removed 2 hexagon screws with a tiny socket set, which releases the inside spray arm. The spray arm came right down and we rinsed it out- pieces of the old rubber from the hose came out. We ordered the new hose here from Part Select and received it in 3 DAYS!!! The new hose has a lip on top, which you gently push into the small top hole. When no more can be pushed through, you pull gently from the inside. Once the lip is inside, you seat it into the cleaned spray arm. Then screw the top 2 hexagon screws into the arm. Now attach the bottom hose with the clamp and screw. Go back to the top and squeeze on some clear RTV Silicone Adhesive onto the screws and hose where it goes into the hole. Also around the hose to hold it in place. Let it set up for 24 hours. It sets up as rubber. Test for leaks again. Now put the dishwasher back. Adjust the legs to fit- this takes time, and you are done! For an $8.00 part and some RTV silicone sealant for $5.00, you will get another 10 years out of your new spray arm hose! It's very do-able for anyone and so much cheaper than a new dishwasher! THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR SUCH WONDERFUL FAST SERVICE!!!!!
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