GMC680G*119 General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

We went to the Part Select site and described the problem and they recommended a new piston and nut assembly and even provided a video on the installation. The only difficulty was removing the old piston and nut assembly which was corroded and broke off during removal. Once it was out installing the new part was very easy. And best of all the dishwasher completely drains. We had an estimate of $150 for a repair house call which would probably have resulted in another house call to actually install the part. With Part Select we received the part the next day, spent only about $18 and fixed the dishwasher in 24 hours--what a great experience!

Followed previous directions which were easy. Hard on back trying to reach over door all the way to the back. My DW is over 15 yrs old and the plastic plug w/corroded and locked into place. Tried turning it by hand to no avail since the plug turning lips were worn off/or not long enought to grasp it with. Took a hammer and chisel to the lips and turned it about an inch counter clockwise (either way), then lifted it out prying it with a screwdriver. KEEP IN MIND THE THREADS ARE JUST FOR LOCKING IT IN PLACE AND THE PLUG CAN BE TURNED EITHER WAY. IT DOES NOT SCREW IN!! Cleaned it with DW40 and reassembled it.

Dishwasher kept displaying error code C1 (drain partly blocked) and occasionally C2 (Drain completely blocked). The drain was fine. Parts Select said symptom "not draining" needed a check valve. Installed that (old one was very worn), but that didn't help. I decided to take off the bottom panel and eyeball the situation. Discovered a leak from the drain valve. But I also discovered the reason for the error codes. The leak had rusted the actuator in the drain valve solenoid so that it couldn't move reliably. So when drain time came, the drain valve didn't open, resulting in a C1 or C2 error (the washer electronics thought the drain was blocked--and in a way it was. I got the replacement parts for the leaking drain valve and installed them. Hints: take a photo of the assembly before you take it apart. Getting the push on nut off was an ordeal, as some have said. I spend at least two hours getting it off. I hope you have secret tool X13 to make it faster. Hint #2: There is play in the drain valve shaft, so I held it toward me with a pair of pliers while I pushed the new push on nut all the way tight to hold the new rubber washer. Hint #3: I used plumber's grease on the washer and shaft to make installation easier. I found the two pairs of long-handled needle nose pliers very useful. Oh, I sanded the rust off the solenoid actuator and added a bit of WD-40 and now the error code problem (as well as the leak) is over.

Thought hoses were clogged. Cleaned hoses but no obstructions. Googled the problem and found many similar problems. On PartSelect, the Piston and Nut Assembly was found to be the problem 44% of the time. I ordered the part and it arrived two days later. PartSelect showed how to install it and the problem was fixed.

Remove filter screen at rear bottom of dishwasher with 1/4 in socket, remove check valve by hand, install new check valve, reinstall filter screen. Run a load of dishes, drained completly.

looked up the model no. on partselect web site and they discribed several diagnoses for different problems.they gave a 19% probability for a bad valve and nut. i removed the cover and the nut valve and the valve looked pretty bad. i ordered a new part and delivery was very good.i replaced the part and that took care of my problem. i was very happy with the whole repair.

Original part no longer made. Substitute too small by a half an inch. Corrected the problem by removing the 4 corner wheels from the old rack and put them on the new one. Now, it fits and works perfectly.

used tips from a past buyer