GHSD511P00BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

It turned out to be an easier job than I thought it was going to be. Of course, I was still a bit surprised it worked right and didn't leak once I was done.

I started by taking off the servo that opens up the drain valve. I didn't think I could take out and replace the shaft seal from this position so I took the whole motor and drain assembly out by loosening the sump and pump clamps. This allowed me to wiggle out the whole mechanism. One plug and a ground wire had to be undone but that was it. The Push On Nut was the worst part - pain to take off - worse to get a new one on. I wasn't sure (still not) if I could get it in the right place. Once I got everything back together and the servo mount on it seemed to hold the nut in the right place.

I tested it and yelled "it doesn't leak!" my wife promptly said "Yet!".

We have run the dishwasher twice - so far - no leaks!

I couldn't have done it with out PartSelect's prompt service, diagrams, and part photos. I don't want to fix any more appliances but if I have to PartSelect is where I'll come for parts and diagrams.

My husband said it was easy. But the gasket didn't solve the problem. So we had to order another part. We had to order the little black stoppers that go in the hinge area. Still leaked so my husband took them back out and cleaned the area. Then put some kind of sealant in and replaced the black robber things. So far that worked.

I turned off the water supply to the dishwasher. Then took off the front panels and disconnected the water. I then unscrewed the dishwasher from the countertop, pulled it out luckily there was plenty of play in the wire, and drain hose. I turned it on its side and had to remove a couple clamps to free th piece that I was replacing. Once I got to it, it just unscrewed. I put the new one on and everything back together. It was easy.

The hardest part is removing the plastic stop on the end of the two slides that support the roller rack. My unit was very old and I was afraid the plastic was brittle. Fortunately, the plastic could still be bent without breaking. You need to physically bend the plastic stops to remove. They came out easily, but you do need to apply some force.

Replacing the rollers was simple. Replacing the stops was easy once you understand how to pry them out. I would recommend trying to remove the stops with your hand only at first. You are less likely to damage the plastic.

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook

I took the inside of door off to install both gasket and gasket insert. Much easier this way. Also it’s much easier to fish locking handle through the door if you extend the handle half way and put through opening when raising the door.

I watched the convenient video and saved an old machine that I've grown to love. Plus I didn't have to pay a repair service or have to buy a new machine.
Thanks GE,
T. Dunn

Removed all 8 wheels and inserted the new one after inserting the axles into each wheel. Replacement wheels had a much better connection to the bottom rack and do not anticipate any problems in the future.

I am a 72 year old woman. The video that came with the order were perfect!! Watched a couple times and fixed it myself. My sons were definitely impressed. Thanks

Pulled out the top tray fully, popped off the end caps. Removed the tray and placed it on the cabinet top. Popped off the old rollers and snapped on the new rollers. Replaced the tray into the dishwasher, Popped the end caps back on and I was done.

With coin, to remove the end cap from the front inside of the rail, insert the edge of the coin into the side of the end cap and push the coin to the rear while rotating the end cap to the inside of the tray until it comes free. Don't force. Pepeat for other rail. Repeat to reinstall end caps. You can can now slide out the the tray. Use long nose pliers to remove old rollers and insert new roller(s) on same prong. Do all 4. Reinsert tray and end caps.

The instructions provided are very good if I had done before. My concern was getting the gasket to sit properly at the bottom where you cannot see. I removed the inside of the door (7 screws) and this made it easier to assure gasket sat properly in the track. may have cost an extra 15 minutes but worth it. If I do again I will take door apart again, however I think this is fixed and should not need attention again.

Followed the sequence from on line video provided by PartSelect. Knowing the sequence and the secret of the push on nut made the replacement simple. My dishwasher is built in therefore I pulled my dishwasher half way out to gain better access and did not need to disconnect drain or water supply. Just unplugged the power and went to work.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.