GNSC347P00WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took screws out of door panel to get to the latch and replaced old latch with new one. Super easy

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

Removed the white end of the top track. Pulled off the remnants of the rack roller. Slide the rack roller wheel into the track and popped the other end on the top rack (looked at the other rack rollers to see how it fit.) After that, I put the end back on the track.... Note what is the top and what is the bottom of the track end. Realizing that there is a wider area on the track to slide part of the white track end through to get it on without much effort.

Took out old one and put in the new one. Not hard at all. Thanks

Removed the 7 screws from inner side of door; removed set screw from handle; removed inner door cover; pulled old part out; pushed new part in and Voila! Replaced all screws, no problem. Thanks for your great customer service!

The solenoid and linkage was easy to disasemble, but getting the retainer (push on nut) off was difficult without removing the motor and pump. Once removed it was a snap. Getting the pump/motor back onto the pipes was near impossible from underneath. I had to remove the dishwasher from under the countertop to get it back correctly. I would reccomend doing this for this repair, as it made life a lot easier. Unwiring and removing the water supply line was not a problem either. WORKS AS GOOD AS NEW!

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

Removing the end caps on the rack's sliding arms was the hard part. It took some arm-wrestling and prying with a screwdriver to get them off. Replacing the rollers was a snap. Getting the end caps back on again was easier than removing them.

Took off the end cap- hardest part- took some twisting-be careful not to break it. After that slid out the old part and just popped the new one in. Then it took a little while again to put the end cap back in. No tools needed.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.

took the front pieces off the front of each bar and placed the new rollers in place. Put the front cover peices back. ....that's it! The only thing i used the screwdriver for was to help remove the pieces, one was more difficult than the other.

had to bend back the metal tab that holds the end cap on. this is tricky and a poor design from a repair point of view. i finally got the end cap off without destroying it. replacing the broken wheel was very simple and easy.

First, end caps were removed from support rails to free the washer rack. This is a little tricky - flexible rear finger of cap is bent back, then rotated inboard to permit end cap to slide out. Ten top wash rack is rolled out of washer. Old roller support assembies are pried loose and then snapped off their clamp locations on the upper wash rack, one at a time. Then the new rollers are snapped on in same way, except no tools are required.
Two of the old rack rollers were clearly worn out from nearly 10 years of normal operation, where plastic shaft is a bearing surface.

Removed the rack.
Removed the roller bar.
Removed the roller base from the rack.
Removed the roller from the roller bar.
Replaced in reverse order.

DONE.