GSC3430ZZ0WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I read the reviews on line and followed the advice the part was easy to find and easy to replace once I got the screen off it came right out with a twist. and right back in reverse order, I fired it up and it drained, yay! no more stinky mess and no call to the appliance repair guy,

After researching for a few minutes on this site I was pretty confident that the problem I was having was a faulty check valve. I removed the 4 screws holding the cover in place at the back of the dishwasher tub, twisted out the check valve and saw it was obviously shot. I ordered the correct part and 2 days later I had the dishwasher working like new. Installation was a simple as could be....twist in the new valve and reinstall the 4 screws.

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...

Looked online for a general cause. ABout 60 to 80 percent, the cause was the piston and nut assembly located in the back of the dishwasher. Ordered the part and installed in nothing flat. Only four nut screws to remove the take the filter off and unscrew the piston and nut assembly. Next cycle, no water and the drying cycle seemed to be better. Guess because no water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Good input and fast turn around on the part.

I put on my rubber gloves, removed the lower wash rack, removed four screws from the drain guard. I unscrewed the defective part, installed the new assembly and hand tightened. Replaced the cover and installed the screws removed earlier. Re installed the lower tray, and ran the rinse and drain cycle. It has been working beautifully ever since.

Remove the screen that runs along the back of the dishwasher.In the middle of the area that was covered with the screen you will see a white plastic valve with 2 little ears sticking up. Use the nose of a pair of pliers to twist counter/clockwise on the valve and it will come right out. Inspect the valve.If the rubber cone shaped valve inside the valve can be pushed through the top of the valve ,the valve is bad.Replace it and go wash your dishes.

Partselect was the only one that had the correct solution. The Piston and Nut assembly fix the problem. The washer on top of the piston was worn and it would not fully close. Replace the piston and nut assembly within 15 minutes after I found it.Shipping was supposed to be within 3 days. The part came the next business day during the thanksgiving holiday. WOW

Replaced the Piston and Nut Assembly, located inside the dishwasher under the screen at the back, by unscrewing the old one and replacing with the new - Works great now!!

First I removed the four screws from the screen/cover located at the back of the dishwasher. You will notice a mesh screen in the center of this cover. The check valve is under this cover midway between the sides. The check valve is unscrewed counter clockwise. I had to use a pair of pliers to start turning the valve. There are two "ears" on the top of the valve. You will see a rubber cone shaped piece that should completely cover the opening when the plunger is depressed. In my case the rubber was almost completely gone allowing water in the drain hose to return to the dishwasher after the drain pump stopped. The new check valve threads back into the opening and should be finger tightened. Replace the cover/screen and you should be good to go.

removed piston in filter and replaced. the check valve had come apart and was not sealing

Removed the dishwasher from under the counter, found where the leak was coming from, which took the most time. We ordered the new part on line, it came the next day and the installation of the new part took about 30 minutes and the dishwasher is like new now. This procedure saved us a lot of money.

Assistant helped me take apart unit, assumption on issue was correct, part was ordered and showed up 3days later. I installed and all seems fine. I do question what would have happened if the deduction was incorrect. The assistant was very patient and clear with his instructions. A good experience!

Most time spent was removing washer out from beneath the counter. Motor and pump installation was a breeze. Everything I needed was in the kit and easy to follow the instructions provided. Saved a lot of money and washer runs perfect. Thank you.

I disconnected the water line on the left-front. Disconnected the drain line at the air-break. I removed the AC power-in box on the right front and disconnected the power lines going to the unit. I took out the two screws holding the unit to the cabinet (above the door) and slid the unit out onto a drop cloth (protect the floor; some water spills). Pulled the unit out and turned over. Followed the directions with the motor & pump valve kit, which were very easy to follow. Then reversed the above. Nut drivers are a must for this job.

removed old tower uuing a screwdriver to losen the tower from rack and slid the new part into place.