GSD2100N00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I watched several YouTube videos on how to make the repair. It looked very easy but sometimes professionals, because they've done it before, don't point out small tips that would help a DIY homeowner. The latch goes easily into the inner door slot but there's nothing to hold it there. The videos show the inner and outer door being closed together without showing that you have to hold the latch in place while bringing the outer door up to meet the inner door. Any movement of the inner door makes the latch fall out. So I would say it took me 5 times longer to do this repair than it would if I was doing it again.

Unscrewed old one and installed the new one.

The wheel kit came with axel's to support them. They snapped in place in seconds. No instructions provided, but installing method was obvious.

Removed the lower rack. Took off the old wheels. Put the axles on the new wheels which took a little manpower, but became easier once you did a couple (there are 8 wheels). Then snapped the new wheels on the rack which was really simple. The new design is much improved to the old one. The wheels glide better, then they ever did. We're sorry we didn't think of this repair years ago and the cost was a fraction of the cost of a new dishwasher.

The part came in as ordered. After removing the dish rack, I loosened three 1/4" screws (two on the strainer basket and one at the base of the spray arm. I had to slide the rubber hose down and back to disconnect the base which I did by turning counter clockwise. The new one went in by reversing what I just described. Other than two of the screws being difficult to reach, everything worked fine.Thanks for your site.

I watched the video that came with email on part. Gave instructions on how to. Thank you !

Put on a new cap.

My husband said it was easy. But the gasket didn't solve the problem. So we had to order another part. We had to order the little black stoppers that go in the hinge area. Still leaked so my husband took them back out and cleaned the area. Then put some kind of sealant in and replaced the black robber things. So far that worked.

The sump was very clogged with caulk like crud that we think was a chemical reaction from soap that was used the first two years. When I first started troubleshooting, the sump seemed to be the problem, so I replaced that. There was a small hose on the sump that was broken so it made sense to replace it anyhow.

When that didn't help I put the dishwasher into service mode and observed that there just wasn't enough water to spin the sprayer. Therefore it was a water quantity problem, which can be caused by either the Water Inlet Valve or the Flood Switch.

I ordered both the Water Inlet Valve and the Flood Switch, just in case. I replaced the valve first and when that worked I did not install the switch.

Installation was performed with the dishwasher still inserted in the cabinet. If you have big hands, pull the dishwasher out. With sockets and nut drivers, I was able to remove the assembly. After pulling it out enough to clear the dishwasher, I was able to get a screwdriver on the outlet side clamp and a wrench on the inlet side hose.

My old valve had a 90° elbow on it and that was difficult to remove. Installing the elbow on the new valve was just as bad. The valves don't have enough clearance to get a wrench on them to keep them from turning while the elbow is tightened.

TIP: Take a picture of the valve before removing/disconnecting anything. I don't know if the electrical connector can attach either way but I made sure to put it back on exactly the same way it was.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Repair was easy. However, this did not solve the problem.

See GE web site for repair instructions. Take out screws at top of door. Slide unit out there is a spring on each side of the door just look at the good one for details. Easy fix. About 30 minutes.

I watched the video instructions and it looked easy! The old gasket just pulled right off easily! Installation of the new gaskets was quick and easy!

I watched the convenient video and saved an old machine that I've grown to love. Plus I didn't have to pay a repair service or have to buy a new machine.
Thanks GE,
T. Dunn

Squeeze the new link to the cable hook with pliers while locking the vise grip to the cable for easier handling. Then, using the vise grip on the cable, hook the other end of the link to the dishwasher door hook