GSD2100N00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Based on information gleaned from the internet, I suspected that the drain solenoid might have melted. I took apart the solenoid assembly and checked it out. I found that some of the plastic on the inside of the solenoid had indeed melted, making it impossible for the plunger that opens and closes the drain valve to move in and out smoothly and completely. I removed the old solenoid, replaced it with the new one, and the dishwasher worked perfectly.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

After determining the drainage issue was caused by the solenoid, (by process of elimination; the hose was clear, drain opening clear, diverter moving freely, power to solenoid present during rinse cycle= bad solenoid. Solenoid showed signs of overheating upon internal inspection...) I transfered the bracket assembly to the new solenoid, re-attached bracket to diverter reservoir, connected spring and power and Did a test run. Solenoid works great! I did notice the shaft on which the diverter pivots leaking just a bit while moving the shaft. You might consider oredering a new gasket for it if you plan to replace the solenoid. Pretty easy repair. Especially considering the complexity of some other possible problems! Good luck!

I pulled the dishwasher out and detached the drain hose. I attached the new drain hose after cleaning out the connection to the garbage disposal.

Now my dishwasher doesn't stink anymore!

Heard a noise in our dishwasher and ended up taking the entire pump and housing out and found a small sucker stick in the impeller along with a bunch of string and other material that needed to be cleaned out. Also found that the housing was leaking at the shaft that goes to the solenoid and dripping on the solenoid and had rusted the metal plunger that goes into the solenoid. Bought the housing and solenoid unit. 1 screw (bottom one) on the housing was rusted becaue of the water. Had to hacksaw the housing and then had to drill out that screw. Also, the pump housing screen is left hand thread and is tough to get out. Had to hacksaw that too. Be careful of the orientation of the metal ring in the impeller area. I did that backwards the first time and the motor would not move. Also, the electrical connector to the motor appears to be polarized so it can only go on 1 way-notice before you take it out. Be sure to screw the solenoid bracket back on tight and notice the spring orientation before you remove-the new one was different than the old. Bottom line is that it works fine, and for $40, it's fixed, rather than spending $800 for a new one.

Opened the package and screwed in the new rinse aid fill cap. No problems. It fit and works just fine.

Pulled unit out from counter (never had dishwasher issues before) to see if there was anything obvious with wiring or anything. Noticed that some little piece on the bottom looked to have melted (later discovered to be the drain solenoid). Removed the obviously defective part and looked it up on line. Found the name of it on Part Select's website then started shopping for best price. Came back to Part Select because the price was the cheapest I could find. Two - Three days later received part and put it back on and had the dishwasher back in place and in use within about 10-15 minutes. Marking my first ever dishwasher repair. :)

Removed the wire clip, then removed two screws on mounting bracket. Then disconected the hose. Removed the brass elbow.

Then reversed these steps and I was done.

I unscrewed the inside of the dishwasher door and clearly saw the old interlock switch. This dishwasher has two, but it was obvious that one switch worked and one didn't (one switched was permanently pressed in). I removed the old interlock switch. It was tricky to pull out and I felt like I was going to break it but after watching youtube videos, I was pretty sure you just have to pull hard. I easily put the new switch in, reattached the dishwasher door, and it works perfectly!

replaced solenoid. worked properly after repair

I removed drain hose to install 1 yr old dishwasher. Installed it fd water leak at drain hose. Removed it, found collection chamber was collapsed. This was a factory bo-bo. Collection chamber is made of p. V. C. I also had a problem with the sump filter ball. Called g. E. The told me to just put the ball in the chamber,not, the ball has to come in from the top, removing the spray arm,sump cover,major disassembly. Now I know how to completely dismantle a dishwasher. Home depot had no idea what I was talking about???now works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Turn off water .Remove 4 screws holding lower front panels.Remove panels, valve is on left . Remove 2 screws that hold valve , slip valve up over clip. Using pliers slide clamp back, remove hose from valve.disconnect wire clip , unscrew from water fill line. Install new valve in the reverse order

First of all the part I ordered came a lot sooner than expected.
I thought it would take 5 to 10 days.
I ordered it on a Tuesday and it was at my door on Thursday.
The part was difficult to take off as this was the first time I attempted this.
When the new part came, I saw that I went to too much trouble to take the old one off.
It was installed in about 40 minutes and we were off and running.

Replaced with a new rinse aid fill cap.

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell