PDWT400V50BB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

removed front panel and replaced new part. Timer did not work because plug kept disconnecting. Called GE service and watched him remove panel without removing control panel. Plug for timer can be installed easily and front panel replaced without disturbing cable.

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.

First broke the tab on trying to get the sprayer arm out - had to buy replacement part. The tab to release the sprayer arm is on the BACK and can't be seen. FYI, pull the tab gently out from the back to release the sprayer arm. Problem wasn't a clogged drain. Next figured it had to be clogged in the Impeller and Seal assembly. Replaced that and realized the motor wouldn't turn. As an electronic engineer, determined the starting capacitor was defective. Found Mr. Nice GET (who owns Hotpoint) would not sell the capacitor, only the entire motor assembly for about $125.00 more or less. Found a capacitor at local motor shop with the correct value and hung it under the dishwasher. (wasn't the right package size to replace where the old one was). All is well - Finally.

took apart lower spray wand cleaned filter noticed sump basket tube to be decaying flaking apart sump filled with white grit and flakes had been using Cascade all it's life and had no problems till new formulation of Cascade and then had all the problems. Steps to replace sump basket #1 turn water and power off to dishwasher #2 disconnect water line, drain line, and power cord #3 remove dishwasher from cabinet #4 open door and remove both upper and lower baskets (upper basket comes off when you remove the end plastic pieces(push in the button like piece from the side of the track and remove the end piece on both sides and the rack comes out)) #5 pull up and off lower spray wand be sure you remove the stainless steel washer that they use as a bearing for the wand #6 remove round white nylon nut(fine filter nut) that holds screen assemble in #7 remove screen by pulling straight up this also has a tube that inserts into the sump #8 remove the main conduit assemble from the pump #9 remove the upper spray wand (center screw)unit should come off #10 remove main conduit from dishwasher #11 remove sump screen cover (you may have to squeeze together to remove #12 remove inner sump basket ( it is held in place by 2 molded catches on either sides of the basket you will have to release these or just pry the side together and lift out) #13 sump cover and basket may break in removal but not expensive parts and will have to be remove before lower dishwasher bottom (perforated screen) can be removed #14 a shop vac to suck out remainder of water from sump may be helpful since now you will have to close door and turn unit upside down #15 lower sump connects to the dishwasher housing by a screw clamp, along with a sensor connection, to the pump intake, and the discharge pump #16 after all clamps are removed and the sensor removed pull the sump off the dishwasher body (note a oval ring inside the sump this mush be retained since it does not come with the new sump #17 assemble in reverse order (NOTE BE SURE TO INSTALL THE OVAL WASHER IN SUMP PRIOR TO PUTTING SUMP BACK ON DISHWASHER BODY and MAKE SURE YOU PUT LOWER DISHWASHER SCREEN (YEA THAT PERFERATED STAINLESS STEEL BOTTOM ON BEFORE YOU PUT THE SUMP SCREEN IN) Also clean and flush the fine screen from any food it may have trapped, the wands flush to make sure your spray ports are clear and not plugged. I replace the sump with a new sump screen and sump cover since they are a little different in the new design from the old. I also dumped Cascade and switched to Finish dishwashing soap it still has some phosphates in it which helps cleaning immensely

Found numerous references on internet that most likely cause was due to a fouled or plugged suction screen. I unscrewed anchor tabs on top securing the dishwasher to the countertop, slightly lowered the front screw legs, turned off circuit breaker at the electrical panel, checked to verify the power was off, removed the small electrical cover under the dishwasher and disconnected the 3 wire nuts, pulled the dishwasher partially out, then disconnected the small corrugated drain hose from the discharge pump under the washer being careful to collect small amount of drain water in a bowl. Finally, carefully pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop leaving the hot water supply hose connected. Tipped washer over onto back (the frame rails are rounded in the back to help facilitate this). Had to unscrew the hose clamps to remove the rubber sump. Then stood the dishwasher back up to disassemble the plastic screen parts from inside the dishwasher. The screen was in fact plugged with white slimy deposits that when dried became chalk like. During cleaning out the white caked on deposits in the rubber sump, I accidentally pushed my screwdriver through a rubber vent stand tube and this is why I had to buy a new rubber sump. The sump rubber material appeared to be partially deteriorated which is why my screwdriver passed through it. Reassembly wasn't very easy. It was difficult to get the rubber sump boot over the plastic flange on the bottom of the tub. It helped to remove the metal hose clamp completely and to have someone hold the dishwasher in place lying on its back while I pushed and prodded to get the rubber seal over the oval flange. Once on, everything went back together easily in reverse order. It probably took me a total of 6 to 8 hours of real working time. But taking into account that I only worked for short periods of time on evenings after work and the fact I had to lug around my extra 70 lbs of gut, the constant laying down and getting back up, the 4 day wait for the new rubber sump to arrive, and my near senior citizen age stretched this 8 hours of work out to a two week home repair project. BUT, I was successful and everything is back to perfect working order. Thank you Partselect.com for having the sump in stock and to my door in only 4 days!

Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.

Remove door cover shell by removing screws in inside of door. Unplug harness to control module.Remove outer door shell.Remove four screws at the blower motor. Replace with new motor after disconnecting harness to motor. Reinstall module harness reinstall door shell.

Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.

Open the door and go along entire edge of door and use Philipps to unscrew the front panel of the door from the inside panel of the door. Once unscrewed open carefully. There are screws in the dispenser cup. Undo those and then there are two plugs to be undone. There is also the main black computer component that has to be unplugged from its cord. Just remove and screw everything back the way it was. This was my first time and I am a female age 58 years old. It was simple. If I had to do it again I could do it in less than half the time.

Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.

I unscrewed the screws in the door of the dishwasher. Then pulled the inside part of the door up and unscrewed the 6 screws that held the dispenser. I am not sure the correct name of the part but it is on the backside of the dispenser and is red and it is where the wires connect to it, that was probably the most difficult part, disconnecting the plastic covers from the old dispenser. I used a butter knife to pop it out and then was able to get a better grip to pull them off. I pushed the wires on the new red thing and then put the new dispenser in place. You have to make sure that the dispenser is in the right spot and the brace on the underside of the inside part of the door, is in the correct place, otherwise, you will have a leak. Which is what happened to me. I just unscrewed and opened it again and screwed the screws tighter and it was fine.

simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.

look at neww part first then r&r

Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...

Repairs do not get any easier than this. Remove 12 screws to disassemble door panel (be careful not to let front panel of assembly to drop or bend when screws release it). Remove 6 screws to remove old detergent dispenser. Unplug cable from old dispenser. Connect cable to new dispenser. Install new dispenser into door with 6 screws and then reassemble door panel with 12 screws making sure to keep all wiring free from pressure points.