GDWT358V55ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

You sent the correct new part, so repair was remove and replace.

I took the old rack out of the dishwasher, took the new one out of the box it was shipped in and slid it into place. Works great. Need top one soon, but will wait until there's some extra money to order it!!!! Thanks for everything!!

Replaced identical basket. Service was outstanding from Part Select. Basket was delivered in less than 24 hours from time of order. Truly amazing.

Simply screwed in the new rinse aid cap to replace the old one

Middle arm bearing used a pair of pliers to unscrew the screw and to re-screw with new bearing in place. NO did not have to disconnect the arm. Lower arm turn counter clockwise to remove (comes off very easy) stick needle nose straight down opening and remove bearing. Use needle nose to place new bearing.

I had a small leak from under the dishwasher which turned out to be a tiny hole in the Pump Connector. With the power off I pulled the dishwasher out of the cabinet and disconnected the water and drain lines to give me more room. I put the dishwasher on its back to have access to the pump assembly. A couple of nut drivers and the pump connector is accessible. Replaced the pump connector and over tightened it "Crack"... had to replace the Main Conduit connector ($50). I was able to turn a simple $20 repair into a $70 repair. Now that's talent!

This is a somewhat difficult task in that the dishwasher had to be pulled out of the cabinet which required the water inlet hose to be removed (and water to the hose to be shut off). Once the dishwasher was free of the cabinet it had to be flipped over to reach the water inlet valve. Once the valve was replaced go in reverse to reinstall the dishwasher. Worked fine after I got everything installed; no leaks.

Found numerous references on internet that most likely cause was due to a fouled or plugged suction screen. I unscrewed anchor tabs on top securing the dishwasher to the countertop, slightly lowered the front screw legs, turned off circuit breaker at the electrical panel, checked to verify the power was off, removed the small electrical cover under the dishwasher and disconnected the 3 wire nuts, pulled the dishwasher partially out, then disconnected the small corrugated drain hose from the discharge pump under the washer being careful to collect small amount of drain water in a bowl. Finally, carefully pulled dishwasher out from under the countertop leaving the hot water supply hose connected. Tipped washer over onto back (the frame rails are rounded in the back to help facilitate this). Had to unscrew the hose clamps to remove the rubber sump. Then stood the dishwasher back up to disassemble the plastic screen parts from inside the dishwasher. The screen was in fact plugged with white slimy deposits that when dried became chalk like. During cleaning out the white caked on deposits in the rubber sump, I accidentally pushed my screwdriver through a rubber vent stand tube and this is why I had to buy a new rubber sump. The sump rubber material appeared to be partially deteriorated which is why my screwdriver passed through it. Reassembly wasn't very easy. It was difficult to get the rubber sump boot over the plastic flange on the bottom of the tub. It helped to remove the metal hose clamp completely and to have someone hold the dishwasher in place lying on its back while I pushed and prodded to get the rubber seal over the oval flange. Once on, everything went back together easily in reverse order. It probably took me a total of 6 to 8 hours of real working time. But taking into account that I only worked for short periods of time on evenings after work and the fact I had to lug around my extra 70 lbs of gut, the constant laying down and getting back up, the 4 day wait for the new rubber sump to arrive, and my near senior citizen age stretched this 8 hours of work out to a two week home repair project. BUT, I was successful and everything is back to perfect working order. Thank you Partselect.com for having the sump in stock and to my door in only 4 days!

After determining that the leak was coming from the sump connector, I had to completely remove the unit from the counter. After removing all the parts in the wash cabinet (wash arms,conduit,fine,course and sump filters),the sump connector nut was revealed which I loosened, but did not remove, with a channel lock plier. The unit was then placed up-side down where I then loosened all the worm clamps that attached the drain motor,pump,and turbidity sensor to the sump and sump connector.then I removed the brackets that braced the pump to the washer body and removed the pump.at this point,you should be able to remove the drain motor and turbidity sensor from the sump and remove the sump from the washer. You should also be able to remove the connector as well.Both these items are made of some type of rubber which seems to deteriorate from the soap which was caked all over them in my case. Just reverse the above process to re-install everthing. I didn't find this job terribly difficult and it was certainly better than spending hundreds replacing the unit.

removed original rack, inserted replacement.

Opened dishwasher after it completed a wash cycle. Found the rinse dispenser cap had come off during the wash and melted on the heating coil at the bottom of the machine. Pulled cap off of coil, made sure coil was not disturbed. Looked in various sites for cap. Finally found this site where I didn't need to order the whole mechanism and could order just the cap. Received the cap, screwed into the dispenser, fixed. The only problem I had was that there were two possible caps so I picked the one that was the same color as the original one. Project completed. Thanks

took apart lower spray wand cleaned filter noticed sump basket tube to be decaying flaking apart sump filled with white grit and flakes had been using Cascade all it's life and had no problems till new formulation of Cascade and then had all the problems. Steps to replace sump basket #1 turn water and power off to dishwasher #2 disconnect water line, drain line, and power cord #3 remove dishwasher from cabinet #4 open door and remove both upper and lower baskets (upper basket comes off when you remove the end plastic pieces(push in the button like piece from the side of the track and remove the end piece on both sides and the rack comes out)) #5 pull up and off lower spray wand be sure you remove the stainless steel washer that they use as a bearing for the wand #6 remove round white nylon nut(fine filter nut) that holds screen assemble in #7 remove screen by pulling straight up this also has a tube that inserts into the sump #8 remove the main conduit assemble from the pump #9 remove the upper spray wand (center screw)unit should come off #10 remove main conduit from dishwasher #11 remove sump screen cover (you may have to squeeze together to remove #12 remove inner sump basket ( it is held in place by 2 molded catches on either sides of the basket you will have to release these or just pry the side together and lift out) #13 sump cover and basket may break in removal but not expensive parts and will have to be remove before lower dishwasher bottom (perforated screen) can be removed #14 a shop vac to suck out remainder of water from sump may be helpful since now you will have to close door and turn unit upside down #15 lower sump connects to the dishwasher housing by a screw clamp, along with a sensor connection, to the pump intake, and the discharge pump #16 after all clamps are removed and the sensor removed pull the sump off the dishwasher body (note a oval ring inside the sump this mush be retained since it does not come with the new sump #17 assemble in reverse order (NOTE BE SURE TO INSTALL THE OVAL WASHER IN SUMP PRIOR TO PUTTING SUMP BACK ON DISHWASHER BODY and MAKE SURE YOU PUT LOWER DISHWASHER SCREEN (YEA THAT PERFERATED STAINLESS STEEL BOTTOM ON BEFORE YOU PUT THE SUMP SCREEN IN) Also clean and flush the fine screen from any food it may have trapped, the wands flush to make sure your spray ports are clear and not plugged. I replace the sump with a new sump screen and sump cover since they are a little different in the new design from the old. I also dumped Cascade and switched to Finish dishwashing soap it still has some phosphates in it which helps cleaning immensely

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!