GDWT358V55ES General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Peter from Davenport, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD14X10009
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Hing arm broke
Removed dish washer from cabinet area and snapped new clip into cable and hook into support.. The time that took the longest was to removed the screws to pull the unit out of the cabinet area.. Very easy fix...
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- Customer:
- William from Sterling, VA
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Serious water leak into basement from around a kitchen sink pipe.
Removing two screws holding the bottom trim/sound baffle opened a view of water dripping from the water intake valve at the left front of my Monogram dishwasher. I then turned off the local (under my adjacent sink) separate feed valve for the washer, then opened the (dedicated) breaker for the machine at my breaker panel.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
The replacement valve was identical form and fit to the original. It included the replacement mounting bracket integrated with the valve.
Removing two additional screws holding a bigger sound baffle backed with foam gave good access to replace the valve. The foam was fitted to the power box and a few other obstructions, and apparently stuck to something near the top. I ran my hand up separating the foam from the panel and both then came out easily. I reattached the foam to the panel with clear silicon adhesive.
Removing two screws from the front edge of the bracket holding the valve allowed dropping it down for fairly easy access to the clamp holding the flexible house from the valve to the washer. There wasn’t much slack, so I reached the spring clip with a long plier-like device with cups on the working sold as automotive hose clip tool for that purpose. Regular pliers would likely work, with more skin loss from hands.
That action then allowed pulling the valve out from under the machine (feeding slack in the flexible feed I have installed years ago between that valve and the one under my sink. A small adjustable wrench then made easy work of disconnecting the hose brass coupling from the valve.
The right-angle adapter between the valve body and flexible feed hose is apparently specific to the installation, so it had to be removed and attached to the replacement valve. That was facilitated by placing the valves in a large bench vise, clamping the mounting bracket with the right angle adapter up, and using the adjustable wrench again. The old valve had residue from metal pipe thread sealer, so I used some new sealer on the adapter when installing it. Take care. Getting some inside the valve might be a serious problem. Turn the adapter with the adjustable wrench for a snug fit facing the same direction as the plastic nipple for the machine-side hose.
Installation proceeded easily in reverse of the removal process, using a bit of care to fit that foam back around the intended machine projections. I actually used identical thread lattes screws (wider flange) to hold the upper baffle because I misplaced one of the original screws and decided to originals were distorting the mounting slots because the flanges were too small.
I ran the machine through two cycles before replacing the bottom trim, just to assure there were no leaks. Mild panic when the intake valve didn’t operate as soon as I expected, but it must have been some out of phase control operation, because it eventually operated, then operated as expected during the second cycle.
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- Customer:
- Edward from Granite Bay, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD08X10032
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
tear in the tub gasket
Pulled out the old gasket and replaced with the new gasket. Inserted the steel spring clip into the ends of the gasket. Repair complete.
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- Customer:
- Frances from Goodyear, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WD08X10032
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Our tub gasket was torn by leaning utensils (a definite design flaw.)
Just have a good look at how the original is installed before removing, then clean the area. The new one was a breeze to install, just line it up and pop it in.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth R from Marcellus, MI
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Fractured brass bezel on bottom of valve- Leaking
simply removed broken valve and replaced with new valve, easy peasy. shipping was GREAT, Overnight. all in all a easy fix.
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- Customer:
- paul from petaluma, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD15X10014
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
water dripping near front left of dishwasher
look at neww part first then r&r
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- Customer:
- Victoria from Shepherdstown, WV
- Parts Used:
- WD08X10032
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
Water leakage
I examined how the old gasket was attached before removing it. I then pushed in the new gasket needing no tools. There has been no water leakage since.
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- Customer:
- Jane from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WD08X10032
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Rubber door gasket pulled away from dishwasher when door was opened after a wash or when sliding the top rack out
Removed the door gasket and cleaned the track prior to installing the new gasket. The online repair instructions didn't mention a thin wire that is stored at the bottom of the tub near the door and is used to hold the ends of the gasket in place. Gently remove the ends of the gasket from the wire prior to pulling the entire gasket out of the machine track.
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- Customer:
- Donald from The Villages, FL
- Parts Used:
- WD26X10053
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Leak from motor output/pump input shaft
Cut power and water flow to the appliance. Laid appliance on its side, removed the electrical lead from the motor. Remove the mount from the back of the motor and loosened the two clamps- one to the sump and one to the discharge tube. Removed and replaced the pump/motor assy. with the new one, reinstalled the clamps, rear mount and electrical lead. Righted the unit and fired it up. Worked fine.
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- Customer:
- Calvin from Mankato, MN
- Parts Used:
- WD12X10122
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
aid cap melted
Twisted new one in place of old. Disappointed that there was a melting issue at all. Need to investigate problem.
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- Customer:
- Nancy from Garner, NC
- Parts Used:
- WD28X24469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Grate in bottom of the basket broken
Removed old basket, put in recycle bin, placed new basket in dish washer. The damage to the original basket was my fault. I now know not to drop heavy knives point down into the basket.
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- Customer:
- kathy from zionsville, IN
- Parts Used:
- WD28X25960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Lower Carriage Wheels So Bent It Would Not Move.
Took old one out, put new one in in less than 20 seconds!
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- Customer:
- kristen from beaverton, OR
- Parts Used:
- WD28X10128
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Original Silverware basket crumbled under pressure
I took the old one out and replaced it with the new one. It did take both hands as I had to open the dishwasher door while the other hand held the basket. :D
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- Customer:
- Jack from Indio, CA
- Parts Used:
- WD28X24469
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
removed old silverware basket
installed new silverware basket
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- Customer:
- joseph from pittsburgh, PA
- Parts Used:
- WD28X25960
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
bottom rack was rusting away
opened the dishwasher .............removed the old and slid in the new ...then attached by dropping in the utensil compartment.....piece of cake
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