GLD4100M00CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Installing the gasket took about 45 seconds. It actually took more time to scrub the area clean prior to installing. One quick trick I found was to fold the replacement gasket in two, and use that mark to center the gasket and press it in from there. That way you don't have any guesswork as to how much slack to allow for when starting.

The repairman diagnosed the problem as a control board failure and quoted a $350 bill. I self-diagnosed it as a failed interlock switch -- and found out that the switch was OK but the cover was cracked, preventing the switch from functioning normally. Total repair bill - $1.50!

I do a lot of home repairs but I never worked on an appliance before. I simply removed the six phillips screws holding the inside cover on and then no tools. I poped open the cover over the mother board that was burned due to a power spike, unplugged it and plugged up the new one and poped it all back together. In hind sight I should have disconnected the power underneath.

Took screws out of door. Slid bottom seal off and slid new one on.

Remove screws holding old hose. Attach clamp to new hose with nut driver. Tighten hose and clamp around attachment.

Easy as cake. Perfect part!

i looked on this website and found out which part was the drain pump. the pump was fastened to a drain hose, the dishwasher and power supply. unhooked power supply, noting which color wire belonged where. loosened the hose from the pump, got the new pump, installed. viola!

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

Removed the dishwaher from under the counter. Removed the adapter pipe by removing two nut drive jubilee clamps. inserted the new adapter pipe in the alignment grooves, Tightened the jubilee clamps. Tested the unit on rinse cycle. Reinstaled dishwasher under the counter. Easy.

Took off old funnel fill and put in funnel fill gasket and new funnel fill just to have a new one.

Very simple. Took off back cover with screwdriver. Popped off back cap found in center top inside. Replaced spring and white stick looking thing. Put black cover and then back panel back on. Instantly worked again.

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

This was very easy. 1) roll out lower rack, 2) rotate lower arm slightly counter-clockwise and lift it out, 3) install new lower arm by dropping into position and rotating clockwise. 4) roll in lower rack, and roll out upper rack, 5) use a nut driver to remove the retaining bolt/screw from the upper arm - it's in the center of the upper arm and you have to work from underside of upper rack, 6) remover upper arm, 7) install new upper arm by holding in position and re-inserting the retaining bolt/screw. 8) Tighten the retaining screw and make sure upper arm freely rotates.

Removed dishwasher from counter tiped it over and replace the inlet cover removed the back of the front door and replaced the switches