GSC3430Z03WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

i unscrewed the 4 screws in the back, took off the guard thing, and unscrewed the existing part with my hand. put new part in and ran dishwasher. the part did not fix the problem, now i'm on to maybe replacing solenoid? i have no idea. this part was simple to replace though. hope i can fix this issue, i need my dishwasher to run right!

Followed the directions from the website and removed the plastic screen from the back of the washer (4 bolts). The Piston and Nut assembly was easliy removed with a few turns, popped the new one in, and re-installed the screen. Everything works great.

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

first I removed the screen in the back of dishwasher and then I replaced the check valve

followed instructions that came with the part. My dishwasher had a slightly different configuration than what the directions said so disassembly took a few minutes to figure out. Once that was done, the removal of the old impeller assembly and installation of the new went quite smoothly. The replacement assembly had a "grater" which was not present on my original however it installed perfectly and no longer leaks.

Piece of cake. All done and working just fine.

Originally replaced solenoid without pulling unit out, but continued to leak. Purchased the entire motor and pump kit; pulled unit out, turned it on end and replaced the motor. The only problem was that no new ground screw was sent with the kit and the existing screw wasn't quite short enough to connect. Either the hole on the replacement kit needs to be deeper or a bond screw needs to be sent that will fit the new kit. We had to find our own screw that would fit properly.

follow instructions found here, with a little help from part diagram. Initially removed the sump cover but then removed the cover at the back of tub. This uncovered the Piston assembly and the replacement was a snap. Dishwasher now works well and actually cleans the dishes. Also did I mention my parts arrived the day after I ordered even though I used standard delivery. This site rocks.

The part that took the longest was taking the washer out from under the counter. The fix was the easy part = 15 to 20 minutes no problems. After putting the washer back and reconecting everything,the first cycle I had some leaking around one of the two big clamps. I had to pull it out again and move the clamps around and tighten them. Much better the 2nd time around, Good to go!! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE !!!! Good Luck !!

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...

Unplugged the machine then removed the two connectors to the motor. Loosenned the hose clamps, pulled the hoses took off the balancing bar,removed old motor assembly and put new one in. Reverse all the steps plugged the machine back on and was done in less then twenty minutes.

pulled washer out and turned it upside down to get to the pump&motor.
no problem to fix

Looked online for a general cause. ABout 60 to 80 percent, the cause was the piston and nut assembly located in the back of the dishwasher. Ordered the part and installed in nothing flat. Only four nut screws to remove the take the filter off and unscrew the piston and nut assembly. Next cycle, no water and the drying cycle seemed to be better. Guess because no water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Good input and fast turn around on the part.

removed piston in filter and replaced. the check valve had come apart and was not sealing

First I removed the four screws from the screen/cover located at the back of the dishwasher. You will notice a mesh screen in the center of this cover. The check valve is under this cover midway between the sides. The check valve is unscrewed counter clockwise. I had to use a pair of pliers to start turning the valve. There are two "ears" on the top of the valve. You will see a rubber cone shaped piece that should completely cover the opening when the plunger is depressed. In my case the rubber was almost completely gone allowing water in the drain hose to return to the dishwasher after the drain pump stopped. The new check valve threads back into the opening and should be finger tightened. Replace the cover/screen and you should be good to go.