ZBD0710K15SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

went online to parts select. Looked at parts that could be leaking. Thought it was the sump. Purchased the sump and the pump connector. Almost bought the adaptor pump assembly, but it was $29.00. Parts arrived in about 2 days. Turned off water and power to dishwasher. Disconnected the copper water line. Hardest part was getting the dishwasher out of space. Once out, layed it on it's side. Parts held together with clamps. Took it apart like a puzzle. Replaced the parts, tightened the clamps. Pump connector hard to unscrew. Got a good hand grip on it and turned it loose. Sump did have a hole in it. Put everything back together. water, electric, etc. Turned it on and it was leaking. Leak coming from the adaptor pump assembly. Couldn't wait 2 more days.Found part at a local parts store for $40.00. Was able to change it by reaching underneath and not pulling dishwasher out again. All three parts needed to be changed. Dishwasher now working fine. If your leaking underneath and taking out the dishwasher change those 3 parts.

Called repairman: announced that the drain pump was gone. Did not seem right. Went to the website. Found what I was looking for. 49% of the time it was a check-valve issue; only 26% of the time was the pump the problem. Took the unit from under the counter; got it on its side; removed the drain pump. Found my first check-valve, but thediagram showed a second lower one toward the sump. Having located both and purchased two valves and and the lower holder piece, I was ready to finish the job. Quarter-inch nut driver and a screw driver and the valves were in and the drain pump re-installed. Most difficult in my case was getting the dw back into its spot and lashed down! Thanks for the good guidance!

The Lower Rack was a simple swap. The Upper Rack had a tube and rotating sprayer that had to be removed and installed on the new rack. I used a nutdriver to remove a few screws and reinstall them on the new unit. Very simple.

Put new basket in, threw old one away

pulled the end caps, pulled the upper dish rack out. Installed the rear end cap on the right hand side of the inside slider for the rack. installed the bearing and slider in position. Put the upper rack back in and installed the front end caps.

Unscrewed door liner to get to plug in for Touch Control strip.

Turned off power to dishwasher (Breaker panel)
Removed old strip from top of door(flexible)
Unplugged connection
Cleaned off all adhesive and deposits from surface
Inserted Touch Control Panel flexible lead and connector through opening
Plugged it in to secure and test
Turned power on to test
Turned power off
Removed adhesive covering from back of Touch Control Panel
Carefully alligned and pressed into place.
Screwed door back together
Turned on power
Ran the dishwasher and it is running perfectly

The part was identical to GE OE with the same logos, et al
It was over $30 less cost and was delivered in 3 business days, well packaged.

After finding the leak source I have targeted the piece part on your web. It came 2 days after and I replaced the defective part by the new one. I switch off the water, untied the nut to release the pipe, take out the part.

I placed the missing cap into the dispenser.

The old wheels and attachment brackets were easily removed since they were always falling off. I ordered all new brackets and wheels, but it turns out I didn't need new wheels. If your original wheels are in good condition, they are the same size as the new ones and fit the new brackets. The new attachment brackets are built differently than the ones that came with the dishwasher, but (a good thing considering the originals only lasted 1 1/2 years). The new brackets and wheels snapped together and snapped into place on the dishwasher in minutes--no tools were needed. It took longer to cut the parts out of the packaging than to install them. The bottom rack now rolls out like it did when it was brand new. Definitely worth the few dollars in parts.

Simply remove broken wheels and clip on replacements. No tools are necessary for this fix and the replacement was inexpensive and easy to install. The kit worked beautifully.

Removed kick panel and pulled out the unit from cabinet carefully. Turned off water and power. Removed the water feed and used an aluminum pie tin line a low-profile drip pan to catch the extra water and used a scrap towel to clean the dust and extra water spilling out. Used sockets and wrench to remove the old inlet and screwed out the housing to examine the old inlet. No real way to clean it. Honestly, I don’t see a reason for the filter. There’s no way to replace it and it’s not easy to change out anyway. The particles were so small they could have passed through and not harmed the system. A better and more practical place for any filter would be just in front of the inlet that could just pop in every 2-3 years as needed preventatively in 5 minutes. Anyway, I reassembled and tested. Water flow was great. I think it cleans better too because the hot water fills the plastic reservoir faster and stays hot to clean more effectively.

Slid it in. Very easy and the replacement part is built better than the original part.

lower arm lifts off and new sets right on. The upper arm needed a "holding" screw removed (from under the shelf) and replaced with the new arm.

It was a very simple replacement. I took the old one out and rolled the new one in. It took less than 5 minutes!

Watched a YouTube video on disassembly, parts replacement, and reassembly.