PDW8280J10SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I pulled out the racks and decided to take off the upper (mid) arm. It came off with an adjustable wrench. When I looked at the arm I could tell that some of the holes were blocked. Some debris had gotten lodged in the holes and were blocking the water flow. I used tweezers to remove the debris and it solved the problem. I then pulled out the lower arm and cleaned it with warm water. There were soap deposits and I wondered if other debris could be blocking this as well. Finally I went onto the web site and saw that for $40 including shipping I could replace these parts with brand new parts. I did and the machine washes like new again.

Took out old basket, took off the sprayer arm and put it on the new basket.. pulled out the old wheels on the side tracks and slid the new basket in...pretty simple...

Remove screws holding old hose. Attach clamp to new hose with nut driver. Tighten hose and clamp around attachment.

Easy as cake. Perfect part!

We removed the remaining rollers, inserted the studs into the rollers and attached to the lower rack. Easy. I can't believe we put up with this for so long. We appreciate your quick service. So much easier than going shopping and waiting for the parts to come in and then having to go pick them up. Thanks for being there.

No Plumer could help me. No one heard of a dishwasher check valve. My dishwasher was an ISA. I was lost until i found the relationship to Kitchenaid. Then sears. Vuela!
The valve was there, but unavailable.
A few more links, and the term "flapper" came up.
Well, my dishwasher check valve HAD a flapper inside. Although a plastic pos, i could unscrew the two halves and see the flapper.
A little piece of rubber, about 1" in diameter
All suppliers gave me but two choices. One large (size given) one smaller.
After years of searching, all I needed was a flapper valve. Not the whole check valve.
I found it hear for under $10

Lower assembly only require removal and replacement without tools. Upper assembly required screw driver and pliers to install water wand from old rack to new rack.

The most surprising aspect of this repair was the short 36 hours that it took from order placement to product receipt.

No tools required. The seal just pushes into a channel around the tub. The lower ends are held by a wire that spans the lower edge of the door. I started with the lower end since I didn't know just how the seal was installed and found the wire that sticks into the hollow center of the end of the seal. The seal just pulls out so removed it and the wire. Cleaned the seal channel and wire and installed the new seal starting at the bottom and working upwards. after the lower ends are anchored,I found the center of the seal and upper channel and pushed it in place and worked around the corners and down. I did that because I have seen seals stretch as you push them in place and end up in the middle with excess material you have to work back into the seal channel.

1. Removed the cap ends from the inner rails - easy

2. Removed the old rusted rack from the inner rails- easy

3. Removed the spray arm and conduit - a bit difficult: there's a hard-to-reach nut that you need to remove at the hub of the spray arm - A pain in the neck because it cannot be reached vertically.

4. Installed the spray arm and conduit onto new rack. Make sure the conduit aligns with the pipe at the rear inner wall! - easy

5. Installed the rack onto the rails - easy

6. inserted the cap ends - done!

First thing I did was to turn off the water and electrial supply. Then take the side mount screws and remove the base cover disconect the water line slide out the washer. I then put a pad on the floor turn the washer face down on the pad. I disconected the drain line lossened the clamp on the pump. Then disconected the two wires and removed the pump.I then installed the new pump tightened the clamps reconected the two wires then conected the drain line. I then slide the washer back in place reconected the water line put the side mount screws in place. I then turned the water and electrial supplies back on. I then ran the washer to check for leaks. No leaks found iI then reinstalled the base plate. The vibration was gone after replaceing the pump. Thanks Charlie

I took the front off of the dishwasher door, loosened the screws, unplugged the module and replaced it with the new module. This repair was the easiest repair I've ever completed!

Removed the dishwaher from under the counter. Removed the adapter pipe by removing two nut drive jubilee clamps. inserted the new adapter pipe in the alignment grooves, Tightened the jubilee clamps. Tested the unit on rinse cycle. Reinstaled dishwasher under the counter. Easy.

This is one of those things that after you do it, you wonder why you didn't do it sooner. Installation was a snap - literally. All I did was remove the wheels from the bottom dishwasher drawer (they didn't stay on anyway...and one had fallen off mid-wash and melted). I was able to re-use the wheels and simply snap in the new axels - which have a far superior design. I ordered a couple extra wheels to replace the one that melted and to have on hand...just in case. Delivery was incredibly fast - I received the parts the day after I placed the order. Why didn't I do it sooner?!

This isn't a terribly tricky repair, and the parts are cheap so it's worth a try!

(I had one tricky thing which was the door actuator broke while the door was shut. So I had to get the machine out of it's space without being able to open the front of the machine. I did this by lowering the feet in the front of the machine and then I used a hammer and flat chisel to break the two metal screws I had holding the top of the machine to the top of counter top...a little tricky!)

Remove screws from inside lower panel (where you put soap..the bottom) this will allow you to remove the inside of the door. But be careful as there are still wires attached so be careful to place the inside part without stressing the wires.

I needed to remove the metal harness and to open the black rectangular box that holds the interlock plunger so I could remove the plunger and spring (don't lose..and remember how it goes. take pictures if necessary). Then I was able to remove the broken actuator and see how it all fits together. It rests on top of the latch with notched side facing the inside of the machine. Make sure the notch is centered around where the interlock plunger is located.

Once you have the pieces fit together insert them into the door. Replace the plunger and spring and close the black rectangular box. Then replace the metal harness.

Hold everything in place and put the inside of the door back into position and lock it down with the screws.

You can test the door to make sure it's working but the whole mechanism is less functional when the machine isn't secured into its space. So, if you're mostly sure you've got it right, resecure the machine into its space making sure it's solid and then you should be good.

Like most everyone here I was very happy to accomplish this repair without calling in the repair service!! Awesome.

The first posted instruction is dead on (except there are 14 phillips screws (not 10) on inside of door. Also, when reconnecting the 2" quick connect, make sure it is fully inserted - otherwise the numbers on the display panel will not show correctly. Mine didn't the first time, and I had to re-open the door panel and giggle around with the connection to get the numbers to display properly.

get fingers between lower spray arm and drive flange - rotate arm counter-clock wise and lift off...the arm was warped and hitting inside of lower door liner.