GDF630PGM6WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

There was no repair -- it was a simple snap-in replacement of lower spray arm assembly. The shaft holding the lower spray arm in place is plastic so of course it broke when a utensil blocked the arm from spinning.

I appreciate the Parts Select company for enabling me to purchase a replacement part though that allows me to keep my old dishwasher working.

Removed old spray arm. Installed new one. New model spray arm doesn’t need metal heat shields.

Thanks to this site for saving me about 150.00.This is my third repair with parts from your company. Thank you.

damage to gasket (had a slit in the area of the utensii baskets.
causing lower right corner of gasket to come out. caused leakage to floor from the lower right corner of door...

As I am 77 yrs of age I was leary of diy but thanks to the reps of
"Parts Select" I actually was able to put in the new gasket myself.It did take some time and lots of patience as it had to be seated correctly..I also had to make sure the new gasket was in the groove as it is supposed to be.

The repair is easy for most if you have basic skills.

1. Cycle your unit to make sure all the water in the tub is emptied. (Start a cycle then cancel it which forces it to empty)

2. Turn off the power at the circuit/fuse panel & also turn off your water supply going to the unit which is usually under the sink with your sink plumbing.

3. Have a few old towels handy, there will be a little water but nothing that requires a wet shop vac, etc.

4. Remove the bottom kickplate (should be a screw on each side of the front of unit)

5. Disconnect the power supply wiring to make removal easier.

6. Disconnect the water supply line (have a towel handy there will be a little water in the supply line)

7. Unscrew the mounts either at the top and/or sides of the washer depending on the install method into your cabinetry.

8. Carefully slide out the unit.

9. Carefully turn the unit on its side or upside down depending on your preference to work on the underside where the pump is located. Again have a towel or two handy there will be some water that leaks out from the tub even after forcing an empty cycle.

10. The circulation pump is easy to remove. First plug the power line, there is a clip to disengage to separate the plug. A small flat screwdriver will help.

11. If this is a first time being replaced it will probably have crimp style hose clamps on the two lines coming off the pump. Again a small screwdriver will help pry it apart. Throw these away your pump kit will have new hose clamps for installation.

12. Once these clamps are removed you can slip the hoses off and the pump will be free to remove from the unit.

13. Installation is easy. Make sure the rubber hoses seal completely around the unit before clamping. Pay attention to make sure its sealed evenly, your unit will leak water otherwise once its functioning again.

14. My recommendation is to reassemble, slide the unit back into your cabinetry and hook your power and water supply up. Before you screw the unit back into place and close up the bottom panel, start a quick cycle. Within that first minute when the unit is filling and starting the circulation pump you can watch underneath and make sure your circulation pump lines are sealed and not leaking. Once satisfied, you can then stop the unit and finish securing the unit with mounting screws and closing up the bottom kickplate panel.

Good luck! You can do this :)

Online instructions said to remove door. Found no need to. Only need to release one hinge by sliding door upward after removing 2 screws at bottom edge of door which releases both hinges. With door lifted just pry out old seal (it will be stuck so use a strong screwdriver). Then slide new seal in place. Lower door back down on hinge. Job done.

1) Pull out lower basket plate holder out. Now would be a good time to check roller wheels. 2) Grasp lower spray arm base (knurled collar on base) and turn counter clockwise to release. 3) Install new spray arm and turn knurled collar on base clockwise to lock it in. 4) Reinstall lower basket plate holder.
* Done *

I removed the old gasket and installed the new one in the same position as the one I removed. I had to feel with my fingers for the ridge to insert the gasket so that it would hold. I must admit that I was skeptical that it would work (the old one didn't even seem very damaged). I ran a cycle and there was no more leaking. We've been using the dishwasher ever since with no issues of leakage.

Very satisfied customer.

The dishwasher had been installed before we added 3/4 oak floor, so I could not pull the dishwasher out from under the counter. That will be a major project when the dishwasher dies.
To remove the door, I removed the two 1/4 " screws on the right and left bottom of the door. I used a box wrench since that was the only way to reach them. One had corroded due to a leak. it took some coaxing but finally came loose. The hint about opening the door 27 degrees and propping it open with two Allan wrenches through the hinge holes was very helpful. Then I lifted the door a little and gently pushed toward the counter releasing the door form the hinges. I took the door off to find a leak and found the right corner edge of the inside tub had cracked. Not sure how this happened. I cleaned and sanded the crack area and used J-B Weld to epoxy the crack. Replacing the gasket was easy. Slide out the old, slide in the new. Everything went back together smoothly. If I hadn't needed to repair the tub, the hint about opening the door all the way and sliding it out part way might have worked to change the gasket. Note. Unlike a stove door the dishwasher door is not that heavy.

just bolted on the new one and hooked up the hose

Took old valve assembly off and replaced with new assenbly

Opened the door, put arm on bottom, slid in and twisted. Very, very easy. The right part means a lot. Thank you very much. “ Ol Stump”.

I watched a step by step video provided on the Fix It app. Easy to follow directions and only took minutes to tear apart and put back together. Didn't even require help from my husband. Although the latch and striker were not the problem, contacted parts select and they then recommended the electronic control board, they ordered it, had it shipped to me within a few days, another really easy fix I did using the You tube video. Fixed the problem lickety-split. I will never go without my fix it app. Entered all my appliances. Sure beats spending hundreds on appliance repairmen! Thank you Parts Select!

Started by removing dishwasher, including disconnecting power, water and drain line. Then turned washer on back. Electrical connector to old wash pump was a little tricky to remove as the release tab isn’t straightforward, I used a tiny screwdriver and jiggled it around till it came loose. The factory hose clamps (2) are crimped on, but if you can find the tail end you can work them loose with a screwdriver by prying the tail up from the body of the clamp. Once you have the electrical connector and the two clamps removed, the pump comes of easily with a twisting motion. The new wash motor came with new clamps (2 extra). When sliding the rubber boots on the new pump in place, it will require a twisting motion to position it correctly, make sure (I didn’t and had to go through the whole process twice) that the rubber boot is not folded under on the bottom where it’s hard to see. Tighten clamps carefully and don’t over tighten. Plug in electrical connector and you’re ready to reinstall dishwasher.

Nightmare!!! The Striker latch did not pop out with a screwdriver as it was supposed to. The whole dishwasher needs to be disconnected and pulled out, then front door removed and totally disassembled to remove the screw to replace the striker latch. lots of work to replace a striker latch. Bad design!