ZBD3500ZZ0WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Partselect was the only one that had the correct solution. The Piston and Nut assembly fix the problem. The washer on top of the piston was worn and it would not fully close. Replace the piston and nut assembly within 15 minutes after I found it.Shipping was supposed to be within 3 days. The part came the next business day during the thanksgiving holiday. WOW

I read the reviews on line and followed the advice the part was easy to find and easy to replace once I got the screen off it came right out with a twist. and right back in reverse order, I fired it up and it drained, yay! no more stinky mess and no call to the appliance repair guy,

i unscrewed the 4 screws in the back, took off the guard thing, and unscrewed the existing part with my hand. put new part in and ran dishwasher. the part did not fix the problem, now i'm on to maybe replacing solenoid? i have no idea. this part was simple to replace though. hope i can fix this issue, i need my dishwasher to run right!

remove the four screws in the back of dishwasher on the inside. Remove screen. Remove the piston nut assembly for the check valve. Re-install the screen and four nuts and your done.

Once I found out where the pison was it was easy. I removed the far back screen that runs across the entire back of the inside of the dishwasher. There was four screws to remove this screen. This exposed the Piston assemply which is threaded, so you just twist it off like a big nut. It was easy to tell that the rubber on the piston was not sealing and needed to be replaced.

Originally replaced solenoid without pulling unit out, but continued to leak. Purchased the entire motor and pump kit; pulled unit out, turned it on end and replaced the motor. The only problem was that no new ground screw was sent with the kit and the existing screw wasn't quite short enough to connect. Either the hole on the replacement kit needs to be deeper or a bond screw needs to be sent that will fit the new kit. We had to find our own screw that would fit properly.

Remove old piston assembly with screwdriver and tapping hammer inside the machine and screw the new part in hand tight, all done works fine

After running a test cycle and realizing the pump was working but not pumping all the water out, I checked the troubleshooting guide and parts list.
I found there was a check valve at the back of the machine and when I removed it I saw it was split causing the water to return into the unit. I ordered and replaced the check valve and the unit is back in perfect operation.

After researching for a few minutes on this site I was pretty confident that the problem I was having was a faulty check valve. I removed the 4 screws holding the cover in place at the back of the dishwasher tub, twisted out the check valve and saw it was obviously shot. I ordered the correct part and 2 days later I had the dishwasher working like new. Installation was a simple as could be....twist in the new valve and reinstall the 4 screws.

The part that took the longest was taking the washer out from under the counter. The fix was the easy part = 15 to 20 minutes no problems. After putting the washer back and reconecting everything,the first cycle I had some leaking around one of the two big clamps. I had to pull it out again and move the clamps around and tighten them. Much better the 2nd time around, Good to go!! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE !!!! Good Luck !!

first I removed the screen in the back of dishwasher and then I replaced the check valve

Piece of cake. All done and working just fine.

Unplugged the machine then removed the two connectors to the motor. Loosenned the hose clamps, pulled the hoses took off the balancing bar,removed old motor assembly and put new one in. Reverse all the steps plugged the machine back on and was done in less then twenty minutes.

pulled washer out and turned it upside down to get to the pump&motor.
no problem to fix

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...