GMR05BLHWWC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered a new tub gasket and, although the gasket went on backorder for two weeks, the repair itself was extremely easy requiring no tools at all!

took screws from inside door panel and replaced the cover taking care not to allow plunger and spring to pop out put panel in place and screwed down

Watched the repair video on PartSelect website , repair was exactly as they showed on video , grab old agitator at base , give a quick pull and it popped right off , lined up tabs to coupler with new agitator and gave a sharp push down and new agitator snapped right on. Total repair time was approx 5 minutes .

The Hub nut was very corroded and seized, and would not break loose using several types of wrenches & lubricants. The shaft is square with threads only on the corners, I used an electric drill to crack the hub nut on the straight sides of the shaft where there are no threads. All parts are GE and exact replacements, The noise is much less, but still a very small water leak. Should work for awhile , but a new washer is in the near future. Parts are good with quality service and shipment.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

I followed the video and paused it after every step. What gave me the most trouble was the tub nut which would not turn so I used a chisel and it just disintegrated along with the split ring, so that worked. Now its like a new machine. It was a fun job and I'm glad I did it instead of replacing the whole washing machine.

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

When new gasket arrived almost two weeks after it was sent out from Green Bay, I took out old gasket, marking which side was in and which out.
Then, with hands, fit new gasket in place making sure it was centered.
No leaking; it worked.
Thanks.

Repair video is spot on but does not emphasize securing the drain pump to the washer before reattaching hoses. This holds the pump in place allowing you to compress the hose clamp while pushing on the hoses.

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

I pushed a small screwdriver under the top lid and pulled the front out and lifted it out or the way. The rubber hose had two clamps holding it. One you loosen with a flat screwdriver and the other one you squeeze with pliers to remove hose.Then replace hose and put front back on. It's very simple.

I followed the Youtube instructions on replacing the valve. So easy.
Getting the wire clamp pushed back from the hose was the only part that wasn't easy but I got it done by being gentle and persistent moving and twisting the wire a little at a time.
Im a 67 yr old woman and was determined not to call in a appliance repair person after I saw how simple the installation could be. Parts Direct is awesome. Will use again in the future for repairs. I feel like I have super powers after doing this myself.

Watched video when ordering new drain hose and drain hose clip. Replacement was just as portrayed in video.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc