GMR05BLHWWC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.

replaced them & working fine now....

Removed three nut screws and raised the control panel forward twisted the old switch off removed one wire at a time and put it on the new switch. I did this so the wires would be where they should. After I put the new switch on I replaced the three nut screws I plugged the washer in set it on cold water and it worked like it should.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

followed the video step by step which was very well expalined and was able to complete the install

Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.

Very easy to put a new water pump. You have to disconnect two hoses from the pump, unplug the power connection from the pump, and unscrew the two screws from the base of the pump.

I watched the video provided by your site and followed it. I removed the clothes softener part from the agitator, Got a good grip on the agitator and pulled up. It came right off. Aligned the new agitator groves and slid it into place, put the fabric softener part back on! Super easy.

Unplug the washing machine. There are electrical components that can injure or kill you. Using a screw driver inserted just below the lid of the washer in the front, there are two (2) spring clips that you push on to release. Then the front of the washer tilts down and you remove it and set aside.
On the bottom right you will see the flexible, convoluted rubber hose connecting from the pump to the washer tub. Two (2) clamps hold the hose on. Remove the two clamps, install the new hose and re-install the clamps. Re-install the front panel and push into place, allowing clips to lock into the front panel.

Put the drain hose clip on (it will take squeezing but the hose will pass through). There will be a groove that whose width spacing is similar to the clip. Once that's on, insert hose and screw in the clip.