GSD4060K55SS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Took out old one and put in the new one. Not hard at all. Thanks

I connected one end of hose to the drain using a hose clamp and screwdriver then connected the other end to the dishwasher using anouther hose clamp and a screwdriver..

removed both corner baffles, also door gasket was bad, all parts were easy to order and install, the customer service was excellant with all my questions and concerns to get the right part and the parts arrived in just two days, thank you

The solenoid and linkage was easy to disasemble, but getting the retainer (push on nut) off was difficult without removing the motor and pump. Once removed it was a snap. Getting the pump/motor back onto the pipes was near impossible from underneath. I had to remove the dishwasher from under the countertop to get it back correctly. I would reccomend doing this for this repair, as it made life a lot easier. Unwiring and removing the water supply line was not a problem either. WORKS AS GOOD AS NEW!

This is a very simple fix. The majority of work comes from getting the unit out of it's enclosed space so it can be worked on. Once the dishwasher is out in the open, lay it on it's side, and simply unscrew some metal clamps, pop out the bad part, replace it with the new, reattach the pieces and clamps, and start putting the unit back in place.

I'm just happy I was able to actually find the part to begin with, and then to make the changes myself is a very rewarding feeling. Instead of missing time from work and shelling out $150+ to have an appliance repair man come out to do the work, I spent $20 for the part, and maybe an hour total to make the repairs.

I'll be back to this site in the future if/when other parts on other appliances go bad.

from the information previous customers had written.
it saved a lot of fustration and time
and best of all the dish washer does not leak.

The top right rail, facing the dishwasher, has a self lock tab. Using pliers, straighten the lock tab, insert the cap and then restore the lock tab to it's original position.

Used Phillips screwdriver to undo brackets that keep dishwasher in place. Pulled out dishwasher from underneath the counter. Placed hinge arm in spring, hooked spring onto clip, placed hinge arm in clip. Put back dishwasher under the counter and screwed in place. Took all of 15 minutes. Saved 185.00 for service call.

I simply lifted the baffles out and cleaned the base and installed the new baffles and started the dishwasher and NO LEAKS.

TOOK THE RACK OUT OF THE BOX AND PLACED IT IN THE DISHWASHER, DONE.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

Opened the box the new silverware basket came in and replaced the broken one.m

Unscrewed the old roller. But it was difficult to replace the roller as the rim of the roller would not fit into the slide mechanism and allow the screw to engage the hole. What I thought would be a 2 minute job turned out to be more like 20 minutes. I suspect there is a way to release the slide stop so that the top basket could be removed with its slide bar, but I did not see how to do that. I finally was able to "force" the screw into the hole

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Small rubber gasket needed to be replaced. Not the best design by GE, but it has lasted 11 years before leaking.
Needed to remove the solenoid to access the shaft of the valve. Tough to push gasket into place, but eventually it fit in.