ZBD3500Z02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

followed instructions that came with the part. My dishwasher had a slightly different configuration than what the directions said so disassembly took a few minutes to figure out. Once that was done, the removal of the old impeller assembly and installation of the new went quite smoothly. The replacement assembly had a "grater" which was not present on my original however it installed perfectly and no longer leaks.

Turned off breaker. Turned off water and disconnected water line to make it easy to pull unit out and turn on it's side. Once that was done it was an easy swap out. Exact same motor/pump assembly. Love this site. Thanks

First, remove the bottom front covers (two parts four screws). Second, remove the two screws at the top that secure the dishwasher to the counter. Third, gently pull away the dishwasher from underneath the counter just far enough to see and be able to remove the door spring(s) - one on each side. Fourth, remove the existing hinge arm link(s) if not already broken off, replace with the new one(s). Note that the door hinge goes on the door (front) side of the spring and the other side fits into a groove on the door arm - the other end of the spring attaches to one of the 3 available holes on the frame at the bottom. It would be a good idea to replace the hinge arm links on both sides even if only one is broken. Make sure that the door has the right tension (each spring can be hooked in 1 of 3 holes to adjust the tension). Then gently push the dishwasher back under the counter. Finally, replace the screws under the counter and replace the covers on the bottom front. All of this should take no more than 15-20 minutes. This was an easy job!

Remove the screen that runs along the back of the dishwasher.In the middle of the area that was covered with the screen you will see a white plastic valve with 2 little ears sticking up. Use the nose of a pair of pliers to twist counter/clockwise on the valve and it will come right out. Inspect the valve.If the rubber cone shaped valve inside the valve can be pushed through the top of the valve ,the valve is bad.Replace it and go wash your dishes.

I put on my rubber gloves, removed the lower wash rack, removed four screws from the drain guard. I unscrewed the defective part, installed the new assembly and hand tightened. Replaced the cover and installed the screws removed earlier. Re installed the lower tray, and ran the rinse and drain cycle. It has been working beautifully ever since.

Partselect was the only one that had the correct solution. The Piston and Nut assembly fix the problem. The washer on top of the piston was worn and it would not fully close. Replace the piston and nut assembly within 15 minutes after I found it.Shipping was supposed to be within 3 days. The part came the next business day during the thanksgiving holiday. WOW

After researching for a few minutes on this site I was pretty confident that the problem I was having was a faulty check valve. I removed the 4 screws holding the cover in place at the back of the dishwasher tub, twisted out the check valve and saw it was obviously shot. I ordered the correct part and 2 days later I had the dishwasher working like new. Installation was a simple as could be....twist in the new valve and reinstall the 4 screws.

After running a test cycle and realizing the pump was working but not pumping all the water out, I checked the troubleshooting guide and parts list.
I found there was a check valve at the back of the machine and when I removed it I saw it was split causing the water to return into the unit. I ordered and replaced the check valve and the unit is back in perfect operation.

I read the reviews on line and followed the advice the part was easy to find and easy to replace once I got the screen off it came right out with a twist. and right back in reverse order, I fired it up and it drained, yay! no more stinky mess and no call to the appliance repair guy,

i unscrewed the 4 screws in the back, took off the guard thing, and unscrewed the existing part with my hand. put new part in and ran dishwasher. the part did not fix the problem, now i'm on to maybe replacing solenoid? i have no idea. this part was simple to replace though. hope i can fix this issue, i need my dishwasher to run right!

remove the four screws in the back of dishwasher on the inside. Remove screen. Remove the piston nut assembly for the check valve. Re-install the screen and four nuts and your done.

Once I found out where the pison was it was easy. I removed the far back screen that runs across the entire back of the inside of the dishwasher. There was four screws to remove this screen. This exposed the Piston assemply which is threaded, so you just twist it off like a big nut. It was easy to tell that the rubber on the piston was not sealing and needed to be replaced.

Remove old piston assembly with screwdriver and tapping hammer inside the machine and screw the new part in hand tight, all done works fine

The part that took the longest was taking the washer out from under the counter. The fix was the easy part = 15 to 20 minutes no problems. After putting the washer back and reconecting everything,the first cycle I had some leaking around one of the two big clamps. I had to pull it out again and move the clamps around and tighten them. Much better the 2nd time around, Good to go!! HAPPY WIFE HAPPY LIFE !!!! Good Luck !!

first I removed the screen in the back of dishwasher and then I replaced the check valve