ZBD3500Z02WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Installed temporary plywood cover to prevent new puppy from wandering under dishwasher.
2. Ordered new toe kick; arrived in two days.
3. Unscrewed plywood.
4. Installed new toe kick with original screws.
5. Crossed project off to-do list.

Just remove the 4 screws at the lower rear inside the washer to remove screen holder...then unscrew the Piston and Nut Assembly by hand. Put in the new unit, reattach the screen holder with the 4 screws...and the job is done. Probably takes less than 5 minutes....very easy.

The finished accent panel on my GE dishwasher was dented and looked awful in my newly remodeled kitchen. I thought about purchasing a new dishwasher but instead searched the web for the part. Found Parts select and it was so easy to compare my part with the graph picture provided. Just count off the boxes for measurement and you will know if you selected the part you need. Access panel arrived in two days,packaged well, and I am happy to have found this website. Give it a try....and returns are easy too if you make a mistake in ordering. My order was perfect on the firt try.

took the moter off and the impellar off replaced the impeller .back and turn the washer back on but it still wouldnt .wash .the moter wouldnt turn .so had the moter tested and it was the moter . found out how and what to look for on you tube .it was a big help in how to fix your washer .typed in model and what kind portable .it was easy .thank you for haveing my part also .and shipping was real fast .

Starting removing the screws based on the Users guide document - was surprised to find 4 different types of screws and driver heads - Luckicly I am an adult male and have every tool -

the surprise were the Star screws - the phillips head and soctket screw were one thing -

Everything went well.

replaced pump and motor with new one. worked but pump would not empty the water. ordered additional parts check valve,seal and box that check valve screwed into. did not fix problem. Got to looking at replacement pump and discovered thet discharge solonoid was not completely opening the discharge port. I could hold it down manually and the machine would empty. I reported the problem to parts select and they without question shipped me a new pump and motor. took the dishwasher out of the wall again and swapped them out, and now it works fine. the repair was easy and simple. the difficulty was taking the dishwasher out and reinstalling it 3 times. I will use parts select again if the need arises.

Pulled the dishwasher out from under the counter using a little rug to keep the metal feet from scratching the tile. It is surprisingly light. Old motor and pump are held in mainly by pipe clamps, easy to remove once the washer has been pulled out and turned on its side.

The instructions that came with the pump kit show how to set it up for several different dishwashers. Once you figure out which one you have it is quite easy to set it up. Mine leaked when I first started it up. I pulled it back out and re-tightened the large pipe clamps and it now runs dry.

The dishwasher runs quieter and the dishes come out clean now.

Removed the 4 1/4" screws holding the rear screen to the bottom of the inside of dishwasher. "Piston & Nut" assembly was badly corroded- to the point that no dirty water was leaving the dishwasher. Because the appliance is at least 10 yrs old and there was nothing happening during the rinse cycle, I initially assumed the worst- that the pump was bad. After reading the other descriptions of the problem here, I said, "what the hell?, if a $20 part fixes it, I'll be amazed- if not, I'm out $20 and looking at another $300 for a new dishwasher!" The $20 part (inc. shipping) did the trick. Thank you, and your website is on my "highly recommended" list! One note- the piston & nut assembly did offer some resistance as you might expect after being "gunked" in place for 10 years. However, the top has some lugs or ears built into it, so a few taps with a hammer on my largest straight-blade screwdriver loosened it right up...

Looked online for a general cause. ABout 60 to 80 percent, the cause was the piston and nut assembly located in the back of the dishwasher. Ordered the part and installed in nothing flat. Only four nut screws to remove the take the filter off and unscrew the piston and nut assembly. Next cycle, no water and the drying cycle seemed to be better. Guess because no water in the bottom of the dishwasher. Good input and fast turn around on the part.

Originally replaced solenoid without pulling unit out, but continued to leak. Purchased the entire motor and pump kit; pulled unit out, turned it on end and replaced the motor. The only problem was that no new ground screw was sent with the kit and the existing screw wasn't quite short enough to connect. Either the hole on the replacement kit needs to be deeper or a bond screw needs to be sent that will fit the new kit. We had to find our own screw that would fit properly.

Piece of cake. All done and working just fine.

follow instructions found here, with a little help from part diagram. Initially removed the sump cover but then removed the cover at the back of tub. This uncovered the Piston assembly and the replacement was a snap. Dishwasher now works well and actually cleans the dishes. Also did I mention my parts arrived the day after I ordered even though I used standard delivery. This site rocks.

Followed the directions from the website and removed the plastic screen from the back of the washer (4 bolts). The Piston and Nut assembly was easliy removed with a few turns, popped the new one in, and re-installed the screen. Everything works great.

Unplugged the machine then removed the two connectors to the motor. Loosenned the hose clamps, pulled the hoses took off the balancing bar,removed old motor assembly and put new one in. Reverse all the steps plugged the machine back on and was done in less then twenty minutes.

pulled washer out and turned it upside down to get to the pump&motor.
no problem to fix