PDW9900NB General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I simply removed the old (broken) stud rollers by pinching them with a needle nose pliers and pushing them out, snapped the new stud roller in the wheel, and snapped the wheel onto the lower basket unit. If you have all of the wheels and they are in good shape, you do not need to buy new wheels, the new stud rollers work just fine with the old wheels.

Used teflon tape around new 3/8 elbow. Re-installed valve in originals postion. Connected supply hose and reconnected electrical to valve.

My husband was able to remove the wheels that were bending from the dishwasher rack. Then, he replaced the wheels with new ones and used new studs to hold the wheels in place.

So easy, even I was able to do it. Slide tabs back on defective basket and remove both sides, then slide the tabs onto new basket and place in dishwasher. All Done!

shut off water. removed lower panel disconnected power removed supply hose and outlet hose. disconnected electrical plug from valve. Un bolted valve from frame. removed elbow from valve inlet. installed elbow on new valve using Teflon tape. reinstalled valve to frame. connect hoses + electric plug to new valve. turn water on check for leaks. reconnect power. run dish washer check for leaks & popper operation. reinstall lower panel.

I had a shut off water supply shut off shut under my sink. That is where I shut the water off for the dishwasher. I knew it was for the dishwasher ,because it follow the line, and could see it was going to the washer. Then I went down stairs in the basement. Opened my breaker box, and found the breaker for the dish washer marked dish washer, and put in the off position. When I was still up stairs I opened dish washer , and inside at the top was two screws holding the dishwasher to the counter top. Those two screws turned out to be the exact size of just about every screw I ended up having to unscrew on this machine. So at the time I was in the basement turning off breaker, I went to the garage to gather up tools. Take the two screws that are screwed to the counter top. Then I layed on the floor, and at the bottom of the dish washer there is a panel on the front of the machine with screws attaching it. Take those screws out. Pull off cover. Now get a flash light so you can see. They're adjustable feet that the dishwasher are being leveled by. Those feet need to most likely be adjusted down so you can the machine pulled out, and make it possible to work on. now you can you can pull it out, but watch that water supply line does not get hung up, or electrical wires. Once the machine is pulled out there is another cover on the front that I took off. Four screws hold it on. Now you can get to the part to fix it. The other thing you need to know is after taking off the valve and taking off the old 90 fitting. It will need cleaned up. When you put it on the new shut off valve use pipe dope or thread tape so it doesn't leak. Good luck.

Thought it might be check flapper valve on drain pump, so I replaced fairly easily, per instructions. When doing, I noticed the attached relay wires were not secure. When it was on the drain cycle one of the relay wires vibrated badly and loosened the connection enough to only work occasionaly. Would like to put new relay on the pump but they do not sell separately from the pump. (one assembly). I resecured connection and will wait till relay gives out and buy new assembly, but for now it's working perfectly!

The noise came from the dishwasher door. Removed the Phillips screws from the door edge to gain access by separating the front of the door. Had to disconnect some of the electrical connectors to allow more access. Disconnected the blower motor connector. Removed the screws holding the motor assembly and removed the blower motor. Installed the new blower motor and reconnected the electrical connectors. Reassembled the door and cycled the dishwasher. Very quiet now!

Removed dishwasher from under counter. Removed both cable pulleys and bushings. Threaded new cables and remounted pulleys and bushings. Finally stretched springs onto cables. Checked counter balance and reinstalled dishwasher.

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

Removed the lower rack, removed all of the plastic wheels and axles, mounted the new wheels on the new axles and put them on the lower rack, reinstalled lower rack. Very easy and simple.

Popped in the new one and done!!!

Replaced lower spray arm

Very Easy! Lift old arm out and replaced it with the new one.