GDPH4525AF0A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

I used the PartSelect repair video online to show me how to fix the dishwasher. I needed a spray arm and support. Excellent video made the repair quick and easy.

I recently bought a vacation home in New Hampshire, and had a very detailed home inspection performed. The dishwasher unit was checked out to be in fine shape. Before moving in, I had all the hardwood floors refinished, including the kitchen, and everything looked great. After moving in and using the dishwasher twice, it developed a major leak coming from the bottom of the unit. "Here goes more money that I don't have, to hire an appliance repairman to fix this leak!" I decided to take the bottom kick panel off the dishwasher to see where the leak was coming from. It was coming from the the connection of the heater element at the bottom of the dishwasher. I found a brass nut had been cracked and wouldn't stay tight any more. I ordered the replacement nut from Partselect, RECEIVED IT THE NEXT DAY!!!!! using regular ground shipping, and installed the new nut using a socket set, and tested the unit. No more leaks!! Partselect saved me at least $150.00 on a service call for a $3.50 part. I'm not the handiest guy around, but even this was easy!
I also scored big points with the wife on my handyman repair! Thanks Partselect!

Greg

It took me about 30 minutes to do the repair - took my time and could’ve done it much faster.

Eventually broke off old heating element to get it out

Replaced part

Watched installation video and followed directions. All went smoothly.

Opened door. Located 2 Phillips head screw s attaching the dishwasher to counter and removed them. Slid the dishwasher out about 8 inches. Love broken cable and removed . Inspect spring and attached new cable. Inspected opposite cable and spring. Tucked insulation around dishwasher and slid back into place. Reattached 2 Phillip screws and closed door.

Instead of moving the unit out from under the counter, I did the job with the unit in place: (1) long reach to remove the old springs and attach the new ones to the frame at back of the unit, (2) use a loop of string to hook onto the other end of the spring, stretch it a little, and keep it stretched by hooking the other end of the loop to the screw that adjusts the unit's height, (3) slip the end of the cable to the front end of the spring and check to make sure that the cable is on its pulley, (4) take the string off the adjusting screw and wiggle it to free it from the end of the spring. (For comfort, lie down on a yoga mat when you do this job - thanks to my wife for this helpful suggestion!)

Just pulled the old gasket out and popped in the new. I did trim it too shrt however so be careful not to do that.

All you have to do power down the unit, then disconnect the power connections at the element and remove the old nuts and replace them with the new ones and tighten. Don't tighten too much, the element has a rubber seal that just needs the nut to snug it up.

I pulled out the dishwasher and found the inlet tubing had a tear in the accordion part of the tube. I searched online for the model number and was directed to PartSelect. I ordered the inlet tubing, and it only took a few days to get to me. I then watched the video and was able to install the new tubing.

PartSelect is a life saver and I saved lots of money by not having to call a repairman.

NOTE: I am a complete amateur, and had NEVER attempted to work on my own appliances before this. Diagnosis via web search determined that the drain pump was the most likely problem. PartSelect.com had the best prices and, as it turned out, the fastest delivery. I shut off the power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and turned off the water supply under the kitchen sink. I took all of the removable parts out of the dishwasher (lower rack, spray arm, strainer), and using a shop-vac, I emptied the water that had pooled at the bottom of the dishwasher. I removed the kickplate (2 screws) to disconnect the water line (pliers) and the drain hose clamp (flat screwdriver). Both of these had some water in them, so I used one of a few shop towels that I had handy to keep things dry. Opening the dishwasher gave me access to the screws that anchor the unit to the countertop, which I removed (phillips screwdriver). Loosening the adjustable feet and gently rocking the dishwasher dislodged it to the point where I could remove it, but not before laying cardboard down to protect the kitchen floor. Once removed, I flipped the unit over and disconnected the old drain pump's electrical leads, noting which one went where. Three star-shaped screws held the drain pump in place - one of which was difficult to get to, due to the size of my driver and the location of the main motor. I removed/replaced the pump, connected the electrical leads, flipped the dishwasher upright, and slid it back under the countertop. I re-extended the adjustable feet and made sure everything was level front-to-back and side-to-side before securing the two screws through the tabs into the countertop. Under the unit, I reconnected the water line, turned the supply back on, and checked for leaks. I reconnected the drain hose and then turned the power back on at the circuit breaker. I did a quick test run of the unit and not only did it drain properly, but there were no visible leaks. I will reinstall the kickplate in a week or so, after I can run a couple loads of dishes and ensure that there are no issues under the unit. With a small amount of web searching, some great help from the PartSelect crew, and a bit of fortitude, I saved hundreds of dollars and have a far better understanding of how my dishwasher works. That's a win-win in my book!!

Remover the cracked heating element with the new heating element.

I followed the steps on YouTube.

Followed the on-line tutorial. BINGO!!!!