GDPP4515AF0A Frigidaire Dishwasher - Instructions

The hose goes from the water inlet solinoid to the side of the dishwasher.Remove the kick plate from the bottom front of the dishwasher. Disconnect the water supply to the inlet of the solinoid valve (copper tubing on mine). Remove the screws under the counter top which hold the dishwasher in place. slide the dishwasher out from under the cabinet only as far as needed to expose the hose(about 1 foot). The hose is behind the insulation. Remove the hose clamps from both ends of the hose(solinoid outlet and side of dishwasher)Remove hose carefully because this is all plastic. Install replacement hose and clamps. The new hose is several inches too short and will not fit into the upper hose guide, just bend it underneath. Be sure to put hose in lower keeper on side of dishwasher. Attach clamps, tape insulation back in place, slide dishwasher back under counter and install screws under counter. Attach copper tubing to water inlet solinoid valve. Run dishwasher and check for leaks. Replace kick plate. Note: I had enough loose electrical wire to slide my dishwasher out. If you don't have enough wire to slide out the dishwasher you should call a repair man.

Purchased new drain pump thinking that was the issue. When I was installing I noticed the drain hose was clogged. Since the way out cabinets were installed by the previous owner getting the dishwasher out is a little more complex so installed the drain pump and drain hose just to make sure. Runs like new!

There was an excellent "how to" video on the internet which also pointed me to the part I needed. I did not even remove the dishwasher as recommended. I removed the lower kick plate, removed the power connector at the leaking input, removed the bad nut and installed the new nut.

First, I unplugged the dishwasher. After removing the under counter mounting screws, I pulled the dishwasher out from the cabinets. Because the switch is hard to reach, I put the dishwasher on its side (very carefully). Make sure to drain the dishwasher first, or it will leak all over your kitchen. To remove the switch, I unscrewed the single black screw in the middle of the switch and unplugged the electrical wires. I put the new switch in its place, screwed in the screw, and plugged in the electrical connection. I set the dishwasher upright, and ran it through a cycle before reinstalling it into the cabinet. I had previously tried replacing the water inlet valve, but that was not the problem.

Open door, remove 2 screws from underside of countertop. Close door, remove screws from bottom kick panel,( 2 piece, set aside). Slide dishwasher out, to gain access to left side. (disconnect water line, drain line, and power, if not enough slack). Carefully remove 2 wire clips from discharge pump (located directly behind main motor). Remove screws (3) from pump housing. carefully pull out old pump. Check and clean pump mounting area. Push new pump into opening, do not force. turn to line up screw holes, insert screws, and tighten. install wire clips as removed ( white on left) . If needed, reinstall water line, drain line, and power. Slide dishwasher back into opening. Run a rinse cycle, and check for leaks. If good, install screws into countertop, and install kick panel.

The repair went well,however I must comment on parts select. I do most of my work on the net, I have never had a company fill an order and ship the part so quickly I was amazed I had the part 3 days after I placed the order. Thanks

NOTE: I am a complete amateur, and had NEVER attempted to work on my own appliances before this. Diagnosis via web search determined that the drain pump was the most likely problem. PartSelect.com had the best prices and, as it turned out, the fastest delivery. I shut off the power to the dishwasher at the circuit breaker and turned off the water supply under the kitchen sink. I took all of the removable parts out of the dishwasher (lower rack, spray arm, strainer), and using a shop-vac, I emptied the water that had pooled at the bottom of the dishwasher. I removed the kickplate (2 screws) to disconnect the water line (pliers) and the drain hose clamp (flat screwdriver). Both of these had some water in them, so I used one of a few shop towels that I had handy to keep things dry. Opening the dishwasher gave me access to the screws that anchor the unit to the countertop, which I removed (phillips screwdriver). Loosening the adjustable feet and gently rocking the dishwasher dislodged it to the point where I could remove it, but not before laying cardboard down to protect the kitchen floor. Once removed, I flipped the unit over and disconnected the old drain pump's electrical leads, noting which one went where. Three star-shaped screws held the drain pump in place - one of which was difficult to get to, due to the size of my driver and the location of the main motor. I removed/replaced the pump, connected the electrical leads, flipped the dishwasher upright, and slid it back under the countertop. I re-extended the adjustable feet and made sure everything was level front-to-back and side-to-side before securing the two screws through the tabs into the countertop. Under the unit, I reconnected the water line, turned the supply back on, and checked for leaks. I reconnected the drain hose and then turned the power back on at the circuit breaker. I did a quick test run of the unit and not only did it drain properly, but there were no visible leaks. I will reinstall the kickplate in a week or so, after I can run a couple loads of dishes and ensure that there are no issues under the unit. With a small amount of web searching, some great help from the PartSelect crew, and a bit of fortitude, I saved hundreds of dollars and have a far better understanding of how my dishwasher works. That's a win-win in my book!!