OEMM1-CDU5JV Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

My husband removed the screws that hold the inside panel in place to expose the contral panel area. He disconnected the wire connections and removed the part to replace. One of the relay housings cracked and he had to glue it back together before he could reassemble the whole thing. I did not include drying time in the repair time estimate. After reassembly, the dishwasher worked like a charm.
Many thanks to PartSelect.com and my husband!

ordered new gasket, watched the video that was in the order conformation on how to install which was very easy to understand. the actual installation was right on the money. Thank-you.

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

advisor showed a 30% chance that the part in question would solve my problem and it did. Had help from my 12 year old so it was a great teaching moment. She particularly liked when I forgot a part in final installation and she had to remind me to install before closing up the repair. 15 minutes total. Awesome fun!

Turn off power, remove the lower kick plate and lower trim panel with the nutdriver. The float switch is in the front on the left. Remove the two wires on the switch. Use a #1 philips to remove the one screw holding the switch to the frame. Remove switch. Install wires on new switch and install switch using the screw. Be sure to get the plastic float arm under the switch. Raise float and observe the switch clicking on and off. Replace lower plates and restore power.

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

I took off bottom front and kick plate. Retrieved the spring which had flown to the rear of the unit. Cannot pull unit out because the trim piece on the counter top was put in after the unit was screwed to the underside of the counter. So... I noticed that you could move the plate the bottom of the spring hooked into by unscrewing a long quarter inch hex head bolt and bring the plate forward where I could hook the bottom of the spring into the plate. I had first hung the door spring linkage on the door (looked at the opposite side to see how it was arranged) then onto the top of the spring. The difficult part was keeping the bottom of the spring in its hole in the plate while moving the plate back in place. After I got it past the flange where the bolt screwed in, I screwed the bolt in and pulled the plate back to match the opposite side distance which put tension on the spring. The door now works. I am fortunate to have my husband's tools available.

Access to the soap dispenser is easy just screws. One of the two hex head screws that hold the mechanism assembly is buried by a lever and required a with a special offset wrench, I used bent needle nosed pliers to loosen and remove the screw quarter turn at a time. The blocking lever was a snap-in and maybe could have been removed with high force, not generally recommended for 14 year old plastic parts. In hindsight I would use a digital camera to record the mechanism, due to a absence of any detail cartoons of the assembly. The lever arm load spring required tweezers to remove and re-install.

Remove the old rack and slip in the new one. Took 5 min to figure out how to remove the upper rack. Now have "new" dishwasher. Great service by PartSelect.

watched the video instructions and followed them. ;Very easy.

I removed the inside cover of the door (6 to 8 screws), disconnected the wiring and wrote down where they needed to plug back into. Slipped the new dispenser door latch grommet over the latch, re-connected the wires, laid the door's inside cover back into place and replaced the screws. No leaks since. I have to say that without the help on partselect.com I would have wasted time and money in replacing the door's gasket. I'll definately check back here when any problem arises.

popped the two end caps off of the runners (the hardest part of the installation was figuring out how to pop them without braking them). Turns out just using a flat screw driver to start opening the cap lock did the trick. Once the end caps were off it was just a matter of rolling the old one off and the new one on and then putting the end caps back on.

The new basket wasn't an exact match, it's lighter weight and doesn't have the exact same configuration as far as the rows of tines. This will do us fine until it's time to replace the unit.

I removed the gasket from the packaging & soaked it in hot water for approx 5 minutes to enhance the pliability of the rubber. I them opened the dishwasher door and removed the existing gasket, making sure I observed any specifics of the gasket, (ie...shape of gasket). I then cleaned any debris from the gasket channel. I took the new gasket from the water and folded it in half to determine where the middle was, and I started inserting the gasket beginning at the middle area of the channel, (just under the door latching mechanism). I finished inserting both sides and then closed the door for approximately 30 minutes to complete the gasket seating process. No leaks!!!

Actually following the online video is the way to go.