CDU2J3 Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

Ordered 3 parts first ..all came within two biz days..forgot the toe panel, called it was here the next day! The people that assisted me were wonderful! My husband did the repair. the dishwasher looks like new!!!!! I will order from Part Select again and again...extremley pleased. Now if only we could cover the Refrigerator in Black it would look like a whole new kitchen!

just unscrew the inside panel. using a torx screw driver. disconect vericarefully the bad actuator and install a new one. put back everything in back order .

They just snapped in to place. Once I realized where they went. They are not the exact rollers needed but will do until I get the right ones. The rack will not come out as far as it should because of the difference. Other than that....easy.

I removed the four screws that hold the front kick plates on. Then, I removed the hose clamp (on the right side of the pump that secures the top shower hose assembly to the pump assembly. Then I pulled the dishwasher out, and pulled out the four black snap clips that hold the insulation in place. I then folded the insulation back and reached inside the dishwasher to disconnect the hose assembly. On the top spray arm is a nut that is easily removed without any special tools.
Be sure to save the rubber washer unless you order a new one along with the top shower hose.
Overall, an easy fix. Saved about $100.00 by doing it myself.

I tried tightening the latch (this had worked once before), but it was already tightened as far as it would go, and door still leaked. So I suspected the gasket, because the old one looked like it had lost its elasticity and was caked with crud. I tried cleaning it in place, but it still leaked. So I ordered a new gasket. However, it was back-ordered, so I tried removing the old gasket and cleaning it. It came out very easliy ( I had expected it to fall apart). Then I cleaned it good under running water, kneading the crud out of it. I also cleaned ou the groove, then I replaced it and that fixed the leak. So I didn't need the new gasket.

After checking out the mechanism, I realized that the wax motor which operates the dispenser was no longer working. I conatacted Part select and on the second day, on a Saturday, Fedex delivered the little wax motor. I simply separated the front panel with the inside panel with 7 screws and a 1/4 inch nut driver. I slipped out the old wax motor, unclipped the two wires and slipped in the new motor. Attached the wires and put the panels back togehter. Voila, the dispenser works perfectly.
Total time, 15 minutes.

Used your web site was able to identify correct part very quickly. Received the replacement part in 2 days.
Removed broken part with screw gun only took 20 minutes. Was very please with ease of site and quick delivery.
Thank you

On my dishwasher, one linkage broke, making the door feel heavy to raise and lower. Because there are two door springs, one on either side, I decided to replace both plastic linkages even though only one broke, because it would only be a matter of time before the other plastic link failed and I would have to do the repair all over again. Remove the 2-piece panel at the bottom front of the dishwasher. It's held on by four hex-head screws which also have slots for a Philips screwdriver. The springs can now be seen on both sides of the door, at the bottom. Remove two screws that anchor the dishwasher to the underside of the counter. Gently ease the dishwasher a short distance out from its under-counter recess, just far enough to gain access to the springs. Make sure not to put any excessive strain on the water inlet tubing, drain hose or electric power cable by pulling the dishwasher out too far. Close and latch the dishwasher door so that the springs are in minimum tension. Note the slot that the linkages hook into on the door levers. Hook the small end of the spring into the hole in the metal bracket. Slide the linkage onto the other end of the spring. Stretch the spring to slide the free end of the linkage onto the door lever and into the appropriate slot. Push the dishwasher back into its recess and replace all screws and panels.

Unscrewed the 2 screws securing the dishwasher to the counter. Unscrewed 2 front panels. Shut off water valve. Disconnected water intake. Pulled dishwasher out 5 inches. Removed broken spring, replaced it. Checked the door movement. Scrubbed the door rubber gasket of calcium deposits & debris. Replaced the Teflon tape on the water intake. Reconnected water hose. Opened water valve. Checked for leaks at the water intake location. Ran 1 dishwasher cycle again for leaks. Pushed the dishwasher back under the counter. Secured the 2 screws on top of the dishwasher to the counter. Reattached the 2 front panels and enjoyed a glass of wine.

At first I tried putting the spring into the lid where the shorter extension of the spring fit tightly into the recessed part of the lid. (If you look at the lid where the hole is for the spring and pin, you see that there is what looks like the arm of the letter "Q".) This worked, but the lid would only open with limited force and would hang down when the dishwasher door was closed.
After looking at it again, I positioned the spring so that the shorter extension of the spring ran through the partially open portion of the spring hole. (Looking at the cup laying flat on the ground, you see that the bottom of the pin/spring hole has a slit in it). This allowed the spring to have greater tension and I have had no more problems. The lid opens with force and stays closed when the dishwasher door is closed (vertical).
This may be a little confusing as I do not know the technical terms for any of this stuff, but I just mess with stuff til it works or breaks, whichever comes first! haha

I determined that the problem was the door switch after disassembling the door and noting a broken electrica switch. After receiving the new part, I replaced the whole door switch assembly, and the dishwasher turns on and works fine.

From other comments on this site, I learned that 2 people fixed the problem with a new door gasket; 3 fixed the problem by replacing the dispenser latch. I tried the gasket and it helped some (obviously needed replacement anyway) but then learned that the rubber boot around the soap dispenser latch was torn into two pieces. Replaced it and good-to-go.

Turned off the water. Disconnected the water supply line. Extracted 2 screws holding the dishwasher. Pulled out the dishwasher. Changed out the nylon spring link. Pushed the dishwasher back into place. Reattached the water line. Turned the water back on.

Spring linkage and postage about $15.00.
Savings on service call and parts about $175.00. What a deal. Thank you PartSelect.

I removed the inside panel. This exposed the rear of the control panel. I carefully replaced the defective switch. Only one was bad but of course i replaced both.

In front of the dishwasher, my wife and I noticed pooling water when the cycle was running. I was fearing the worst, that the tub was leaking from underneath, or that the supply system was leaking and I was going to have to take the whole sucker out. Not so.

I saw that the door gasket was very hard and corroded from our local hard water. I got to this site and saw that others replaced the dispenser door latch grommet, too, and four bucks was a reasonable add-on to make sure the whole thing was dry later.

The door gasket itself was about a five minute repair. No real tools required, except that a blunt pushing tool is helpful. The only trick was making sure that both sides were relatively equal on the bottom.

The dispenser door latch thingy was a bit more complicated. The driver set I was using fortunately had a Torx bit that fit the plastic door panel screws. I then tried dissembling the door solenoid/release mechanism, but I should have just undone the nuts and taken the whole thing off without taking the small pieces apart. Anyway, I replaced the grommet easily and then got all the small stuff put back together OK.

This was an easy repair without pictures or instructions.