CDU8000V Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

Once I removed the inside panel from the door replacing the switch was pretty simple. completed the job in less than twenty minutes.

This was the third appliance I have repaired with the help of Parts Select in the last three months.

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

First I replaced the soap door grommet -- door still leaked. Then I went for the really expensive part ($40) -- the door gasket. The old one came right out and the new one went right in -- 15 minutes tops -- and the door no longer leaked.

Thanks to all the previous posters for their hints.

Removed 7 Torx Screws ... removed inner door panel ... snapped off the selinoid after noting the exact original position ... removed the Latch assembly 2 hex head screws ... removed the old Grommet which was crumbling apart ... stretched the new grommet in place. Then did the steps in reverse to complete a successful repair.
Thanks to your website, quick turn-around service and customer's repair stories, I probably saved a few dollars but mostly, I realized how much I love my dishwasher now more than ever!

I removed lower cover panel. Removed two wires. (one on each end of the element. Removed two nuts on the element. Took out old part. Put new part in and reversed procedure. Works fine now.

I removed the screws holding on the interior door panel. This exposed the soap dispenser latch mechanism. After removing the two retaining screws I transferred the original parts to the new retainer and replaced the grommet prior to reinstallation of the mechanism and interior door panel. A savings of probably $100.00 or more for a service call and parts. Should last a few more years.

My husband thinks I'm the smartest wife ever! He's telling all his friends how I got online to research the problem (thanks to your readers and DIY comments!), diagnosed it, ordered the parts and - voila - clean dishes once again! It's like everyone said, remove inside of the door by removing 7 torx screws, dismantle wiring -remember to note what connects to what - pop out old parts, easily insert new ones (that arrived in record time!), reconnect wiring, replace door and you're done. Replacing the reservoir o-ring also stopped the leaking problem that preceded the door issue. Thanks PartSelect!

I first made sure the new gasket was long enough and it matched the original. Next I used the tip of a screwdriver to pick out a corner of the old gasket and then pulled the entire thing out. I noticed the old one stopped at the bottom of the gasket well. The new one was much longer and I thought I might have to cut it to length. Well I'm glad I didn't. If you start on the right side and work your way up and around with a 2 in. piece longer then what the old one was. I carefully tucked it in the bottom and closed the door. Glad I didn't cut the new one. Instructions would have been nice. Overall an easy fix. I'm very mechanically inclined so I knew better.

Removed door interior, confirmed with tester that power was reaching door cut-off switch, but not power on other side of switch when engaged. Noticed that little switch button frozen in shut position, assumed switch had burned out. Installer new door cut-off switch with new (dual) switch units in place, plugged in unit and it ran perfectly.

The dishwasher was running perfectly, but over time it leaked more and more. We were ready to throw it out, when I searched the internet and saw stories about a tiny gasket commonly failing. I couldn't believe that could be the trouble, but ordered the $3.75 part. Unscrewed the door, slipped out the old gasket and slipped on the new one. Screwed the door back. And the result? THE LEAK IS FIXED! Unbelievable. The old gasket had gotten stiff, probably exposure to soap, and it wasn't sealing properly. That $3.75 part saved us hundreds and hundreds of dollars and will give us extra years of use from our dishwasher.

Remove the motor and impeller housing assembly from the unit by disconnecting the motor wiring plug, green ground wire, removing the drain and transfer hose, wash arm assembly and three screws for the filter assembly. A plastic locking ring secures the housing assembly into the unit and is removed by rotating aft about an eighth turn. The impeller is removed from the motor shaft by unscrewing the left hand threads on the fan that attaches to the end of the impeller. The impeller has longitudinal splines that engage the motor shaft, so it has to be removed by pulling straight off of the motor shaft. My impeller was stuck on the motor shaft, so I used a dremel tool with a cut off wheel and sliced through the impeller to loosen it. Installed a new motor shaft oring, and then slid the new integrated seal/impeller onto the motor shaft and secured with the fan (remember left hand threads). Reassembled unit and no leaks...

I had to take the complete builtin dishwasher out of the base cabinet in the kitchen.

turn off electricity - circuit box
turn of water supply - turncock under sink
remove kickplate - screw driver
disconnect electric wires - screw driver
disconnect water feed - 5/8 wrench
remove top screws at counter underside - screw driver
pull out dishwasher - hands and son
turn dishwasher upside down - hands and son
got some water on floor - towel to mop up
remove top shower hose ( a rigid pipe with a screw fitting at top and a neoprene coupler at bottom) - hands
The neoprene coupler is the part that failed, it had worn thin due to heavy water flow

reverse process - same tools

voila - no water leak

I replaced a Silverware basket at the same time, which took two mintues as I had to remove the handle from the old basket and press fit onto new one - hands

Parts Select had the parts I needed and delivered in less than 48 hours. That is great service.

First I removed power to the dishwasher. The inside panel of the dishwasher door is held on with several screws with Phillips heads. Remove those and the panel comes off. There is a silver metal guard that you have to pull off being careful not to tear the insulation that is on the other side. Then there is one hex head screw to take off the handle latch assembly. You remove this assembly and take off the wires to the two switches on each side of the assembly. The replacement part doesn't come with the black plunger that pushes on the switch buttons so you have to remove it from the old assembly. This was the only difficult part, I essentially destroyed the old plastic assembly getting it out. But putting it in the new assembly was easy. Then I attached the wires to the switches in the new part and reassembled everything. Works like a charm now.

First I replaced the door gasket as every one else. This cut drips about 30%. I then discoverd that the Rinse Aid circular dispenser cap was opened about half way. I turned the cap tightly clockwise to close and cut drips to 90% total. I czn live with the other 10%,

no problems, very easy