CDU8000V Crosley Dishwasher - Instructions

The replacement part was the perfect size but the threading on the terminal ends was increases to 1/2" v the 7/16" from the previous element. My first attempt was to find a similar type of part at the local hardware store(not a superstore)since I planned to replace the grommets anyway. After not having any success, I came home and modified the fasteners by slowly drilling out the id of the fasteners until they threaded properly. The time to replace after the drill out was less than 10 min and the ~$45.00 is significantly less than $450.00 for a new unit.
If I would ask anything of part select, it would be to include fastening hardware as re-engineering of products is a continual process.

First unplug the unit. Open door. Take a special tool to remove all the screws (star shaped) around the edge of the door, and remove plastic panel where motor for detergent cup sits. Remove wires (two) from the motor. Remove wax motor by unsnapping motor from its cradle--comes out by moving the fingers holding it in. Push new motor into position, being sure the round pin sticking out at the end (on the left side) so that it sits in the groove made for it. Replace panel and screws, plug power cable back into its box. Close detergent cup door, turm on dishwasher, run through cycle, open door and check to see if detergent door opened up. If it did, then fill with dishes and wash.

First, I searched the repair help on this site to see what others did to repair their diswashers, and it looked easy, so I just followed the same instructions. First, I used a hex star key wrench to remove the screws that hold in the interior door cover. I disconnected the leads to the defective wax motor, reconnected the leads to the new motor and screwed the door back together. It took 15-20 minutes and was a piece of cake! My first appliance repair, and as a single woman and first-time homeowner, I was really impressed with this site! It gave me confidence to tackle more home repairs instead of calling for service and getting raked over the coals.

After checking this site for any clues I saw that others had the same problem and changed the door switch so I thought I would give it a shot.I removed the inner part of the door(plastic).It had about 8 screws.Then there was a plastic cover that covers the wiring that comes right out and there was the switch.There are really 2 switches that come with the latch.then take out one screw with the nut driver.Take the four wires off the old latch and install on the new latch.Then screw back into the door and put inside part of the door together.Close the door and turn on and away you go.I also turned off the power to play it safe.I was thinking of replacing the dishwasher cause it is 10 years old but now I can take my time and wait for a good deal.Thank you very much partselect.Also I ordered the part 12.00 Sunday nite and recieved it on Tuesday afternoon with no special shipping.Wow!

I used the parts blowup diagram on PartSelect.com and dissasembled the bottom wash assembly. Carefully examining how the washer arm rotated, I determined that the spray arm support nut had broken. The extended top of it has broken off. This nut, when tightened, allows the spray arm to rotate freely. In trying to diagnose the problem, I had even removed the motor assembly at the very bottom. When I reassembled it, I apparently did not seat the gasket well and did not tighten the bolts well, so when I tested the washer, water leaked out the bottom. So, I had to dissasemble it all again and properly torque the bolts. So, I really created another problem during the diagnosis.

I unscrewed the top of the spinner, no tools required, and then I removed the spinner by lifting it up. Under that was a plastic nut that required a pear of pliers to loosen it then removed it with my fingers. The spinner assembly then lifted up and the seal ring was there. I replaced the ring and put it all back together, took maybe 20 minutes. I then replaced the wire racks with two new ones and now I have a new dishwasher. “Piece of cake.”
It has taken me longer to type this than do the repair.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

Disassembled my dishwasher and found the rubber on the impeller seal had deteriorated causing the leak. If this is all that is wrong with your unit, it is well worth the repair attempt. Find the service manual pdf on servicematters (dot) com for detailed instructions on removing and re-installing the part. The only thing I have to add is the on my first try installing the part, I still had a leak. I may have just had the motor/impeller slightly mis-aligned (the water tight seal is actually the carbon disk on the impeller rubbing against the carbon disk on the seal seat in the pump housing). On the second attempt I used silicone to glue the 'seal seat' into the pump housing (carbon side out). After waiting a day for the silicone to dry, the dishwasher ran without leaking. It continues to be leak free several weeks later.

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

The problem was the rubber end on the upper shower head pipe at the pump. Not to hard . Slide dishwaser half way ouy the ptpe is on the right side.The bottom end is is just a clamp the top drops in from the top, inside there is a nut above the upper shower head. You can unsrew the nut with your fingers, it is right above the upper shower head.There it a washer at the top of the pipe that should be replaced that doesnot come with the pipe

I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.

Unscrewed the inside door panel. Removed the reservoir assembly. Disconnected the wax motor. Replaced it with the new motor. Replaced the new o-ring. Done. The hardest part was finding out why it was not working and how to fix it. Google for a long time in order to find some idea what to do. Then took the door apart to see the reservoir and the wax motor. After that, it was pretty easy. HTH

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

Turned off power. Removed lower, two panels. Turned power back on and started dishwasher. Saw leak from 7' drain hose. Turned off power, disconnected hose, ordered new hose, installed on washer and routed back to garbage disposal. Turned on power, checked for leaks (none) and replaced 2 front, lower panels.

I first removed the bottom access panel and 2 upper screws holding the dishwasher to the counter. Be sure to remove the standing water in the bottom tray. I pulled the chassis far enough forward to reach where the top shower hose attaches ( the supply line and wire had enough slack to move the chassis ). Not knowing how the rotating shower arm attached, I unscrewed the ribbed retaining ring above it, and found the whole assembly came loose - freeing the upper end of the shower hose. Put a shallow tray under the lower end of the shower hose to catch the remaining water and loosen the hose clamp to free the remaining end of the hose. Transfer the rubber washer at the top end and the hose clamp at the bottom, to the new hose and install. A quick repair, but one that shouldn't be needed on a 4 year old dishwasher.