SHP65TL5UC (01) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Lawrence from MORROW, OH
- Parts Used:
- 12004119
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
The Cable Broke on both sides
The instructions stated to remove the door. I spent an hour attempting to remove the door. That was an unnecessary instruction. all else worked as described. Springs were easy to install. The attachment to the door was difficult. Better instructions on how to grasp the connection to spread the spring to give the cable enough slack to attach the connection to the door.
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- Customer:
- Bill from Seattle, WA
- Parts Used:
- 12054183
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Water leakage from the dishwasher; unknown source.
Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.
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- Customer:
- Callan from CHICAGO, IL
- Parts Used:
- 12054183
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- More than 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Chronic water leakage
Replaced ‘sump’ housing , seal was leaking on it- replaced inop float on water level warning system switch, and switch itself as well- replaced drain pump motor attached to sump- replaced o-ring seal at water sprayer inlet valve- replaced water inlet plastic assemble on side of dishwasher- replaced drain hose out of sump assembly.
Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.
Used YouTube video to understand repair- this is an involved repair in time and complexity- dishwasher eventually gets turned upside down once removed and stripped down, to remove the white plastic water pan , which then allows access to the guts of all the above parts- some critical seals only come with new assemblies, so you are buying that new part to get a new seal and ensure no new leaks from what you took apart.
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The metal support frame for my old cutlery basket was rusted which required replacement.
To remove the old cutlery drawer I had to pull the old drawer forward and work the rollers over the stops at the end of the permanently installed slides. To install the new cutlery drawer, I reversed the procedure and worked the rollers on the new drawer over the slide stops and seat the new basket. No tools were required.
As for the crockery baskets, the larger lower basket was very simple. Roll it forward onto the door and lift it out. To install the new basket reverse the procedure. Place the new basket on the door and slide it in on its rollers.
For the upper crockery basket the procedure is more complex. The retaining mechanisms for the upper basket appear to be very complet as they have a number of moving parts intricately engineered. With a little study, it become apparent releasing the locks and levers which keep the basket from rolling out and falling to the floor are well designed to both secure the basket and to remove. Each anchoring mechanism has a lever at the base and by depressing the lever it releases the basket so it can be rolled forward over the stops at the end of the slides. Some manual dexterity is required to maintain pressure on the mechanisms to ensure the basket will be released. The procedure is quickly mastered with a few attempts. The good thing is again no tools are required.
My new tray and baskets are working fine and it is a relief to have the old rusting and deteriorating tray and basket replaced. This is true for both safeguarding the crockery and cutlery form rust and chemical of deteriorating plastics, rusting metal, and bonding agents. More important, I am sure replacing the old deteriorating baskets and tray guards against any potential health issues.
As for the crockery baskets, the larger lower basket was very simple. Roll it forward onto the door and lift it out. To install the new basket reverse the procedure. Place the new basket on the door and slide it in on its rollers.
For the upper crockery basket the procedure is more complex. The retaining mechanisms for the upper basket appear to be very complet as they have a number of moving parts intricately engineered. With a little study, it become apparent releasing the locks and levers which keep the basket from rolling out and falling to the floor are well designed to both secure the basket and to remove. Each anchoring mechanism has a lever at the base and by depressing the lever it releases the basket so it can be rolled forward over the stops at the end of the slides. Some manual dexterity is required to maintain pressure on the mechanisms to ensure the basket will be released. The procedure is quickly mastered with a few attempts. The good thing is again no tools are required.
My new tray and baskets are working fine and it is a relief to have the old rusting and deteriorating tray and basket replaced. This is true for both safeguarding the crockery and cutlery form rust and chemical of deteriorating plastics, rusting metal, and bonding agents. More important, I am sure replacing the old deteriorating baskets and tray guards against any potential health issues.
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- Customer:
- Ronald from WASHINGTON, MI
- Parts Used:
- 10023852
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Inlet valve was leaking water at all times causing the unit to shut down with the bottom tray collecting water.
Repair was simple once the problem was diagnosed with the inlet valve.
Most of the work was in disconnecting the necessary lines so the dishwasher could be removed from the cabinets to replace the bad valve. Replacing the valve was easy. Reinstalling the dishwasher was just the reverse of the removal. The replacement part matched the original and solved the problem we had.
Most of the work was in disconnecting the necessary lines so the dishwasher could be removed from the cabinets to replace the bad valve. Replacing the valve was easy. Reinstalling the dishwasher was just the reverse of the removal. The replacement part matched the original and solved the problem we had.
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- Customer:
- Toni from GREENSBORO, NC
- Parts Used:
- 00611475
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
One Dishwasher bottom rack wheel broke
Popped the new one right on!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from BAY VILLAGE, OH
- Parts Used:
- 00745001
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The top door gasket on dishwasher cabinet was torn
Part arrived on time. Double checked it was the part I needed. I unclipped the old seal and snapped the new piece in place.
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- Customer:
- James from MOORPARK, CA
- Parts Used:
- 00745856
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Top arm water connection to rear wall - all seals eroded and leaking
Removed the middle basket and turned it upside down. Unplugged the spray arm from the middle basket. Snapped the new spray arm into the middle basket.
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too
Installed middle basket into slides.
It works great. Great site for parts - reasonable prices too
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- Customer:
- spencer from gilbertsville, PA
- Parts Used:
- 12012913
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
Handle on Bosch dishwasher had cracked
1) Remove the three torx screws securing the handle.
2) Open door. Placing some cushions under the door makes the operation easier.
3) Remove the 12 torx screws securing the door skin. Note the screws are of two sizes. The lower 6 are shorter and fatter than the upper 6, that also secure the control panel.
4) It’s useful to have a 2nd person or a counterweight to secure the door once the skin is removed.
5) Remove the old handle by snapping the securing tabs.
6) New handle is press to fit.
7) Return skin to door and re-insert screws to secure.
8) Re-insert the three handle screws.
Notes
1) A three red wire cable plug was floating in the breeze when i removed the skin. I assumed it had pulled loose during removal of the skin so inserted back into the control panel but the washer would not power up with it inserted. On removal it worked fine. Not sure it it serves a model specific function.
2) It may be possible to use a car trim pry tool to remove the handle but I was concerned the stainless might be distorted.
2) Open door. Placing some cushions under the door makes the operation easier.
3) Remove the 12 torx screws securing the door skin. Note the screws are of two sizes. The lower 6 are shorter and fatter than the upper 6, that also secure the control panel.
4) It’s useful to have a 2nd person or a counterweight to secure the door once the skin is removed.
5) Remove the old handle by snapping the securing tabs.
6) New handle is press to fit.
7) Return skin to door and re-insert screws to secure.
8) Re-insert the three handle screws.
Notes
1) A three red wire cable plug was floating in the breeze when i removed the skin. I assumed it had pulled loose during removal of the skin so inserted back into the control panel but the washer would not power up with it inserted. On removal it worked fine. Not sure it it serves a model specific function.
2) It may be possible to use a car trim pry tool to remove the handle but I was concerned the stainless might be distorted.
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