SHP65TL5UC (01) Bosch Dishwasher - Instructions

Followed the video on your site and it was an easy install with no more leakage.

Replacement was fast and very simple. Was completed in less than 5 minutes.

Really simple. You pull out the drain filter plate and pull the filter off the support and replace. I gave everything a good cleaning and put it back in place.

Turned off power and water supply. Pulled dishwasher out. Disconnected the water inlet from the back left side. Swapped out the inlet valve. Wiped up the water in the bottom pan. Put dishwasher back and turned on water and power. Simple.

Hello,
I received the parts 12/10/23. Thank you for your prompt shipping. It was exactly what I needed and the fix went quickly with no issues.

I ordered two of PS8728568 (Mounting Bracket), because on your site for that part it identifies that each bracket is sold individually. (Reference: “Part Description” section). In addition, on that same web page under the “Question and Answers” section it identifies that each bracket is sold individually.

However, what I received was, two packages with each package having two brackets in it. It’s understandable, since you need two brackets for each dishwasher.

Obviously, this is completely contrary to what your web page states. In reality, each package is sold with a pair of brackets.

I have not opened the second package and as such it is completely resaleable. As per your Return Policy , I’d like to request a refund for the second packet of brackets and have you cover the return shipping of that package. Please advise next steps.

Fairly easy repair, with the hardest part getting the appliance out of the cabinet. Kill the power and get the dishwasher out. Once out, the water inlet assembly (a large, white, opaque plastic box) is on the left side of the dishwasher, exposed and surrounded by the sound insulation. Pull back the insulation and use pliers to disconnect the small, white water inlet tube (hard to remove, you may need to pry a bit with a flathead screwdriver). Once that's off, look on the back left of the dishwasher for the valve access, which is mounted on a plastic snap-in tab. It was easiest to snap this out by reaching into the dishwasher from the side and squeezing the tab on the assembly with my fingers. Once it's out, remove the electrical connection from the old valve access by squeezing the tab. Unscrew the incoming water hose (from water service), and squeeze the clamp to remove the smaller white hose. Then go in reverse to reassemble: connect the white hose to the valve access and clamp. Connect the water service (make sure the threads take and it's solidly hand-tightened). Connect the small electrical plug. Snap the panel back into the back of the dishwasher. Connect the small white hose back to the water inlet assembly on the left side of the dishwasher and clamp. Test if you can, then put insulation and appliance back in. This totally eliminated my E17 errors.

popped off old spray arm from under the rack and put on new spray arm,
couldn't be any easier, 5 minute job, door closes easily now!

replacing the sensor was simple, just unplug and turn it out, but didn't solve the problem, it's a float sensor that doesn't show up on the tech sheet in the dishwasher or anywhere in troubleshooting on the internet I could find.

Easily removed the old one by carefully pulling it and repeated this procedure to replace it. Total time took less than 15 minutes

They just snap in

The instructions stated to remove the door. I spent an hour attempting to remove the door. That was an unnecessary instruction. all else worked as described. Springs were easy to install. The attachment to the door was difficult. Better instructions on how to grasp the connection to spread the spring to give the cable enough slack to attach the connection to the door.

1) Remove the three torx screws securing the handle.

2) Open door. Placing some cushions under the door makes the operation easier.

3) Remove the 12 torx screws securing the door skin. Note the screws are of two sizes. The lower 6 are shorter and fatter than the upper 6, that also secure the control panel.

4) It’s useful to have a 2nd person or a counterweight to secure the door once the skin is removed.

5) Remove the old handle by snapping the securing tabs.

6) New handle is press to fit.

7) Return skin to door and re-insert screws to secure.

8) Re-insert the three handle screws.

Notes

1) A three red wire cable plug was floating in the breeze when i removed the skin. I assumed it had pulled loose during removal of the skin so inserted back into the control panel but the washer would not power up with it inserted. On removal it worked fine. Not sure it it serves a model specific function.

2) It may be possible to use a car trim pry tool to remove the handle but I was concerned the stainless might be distorted.

Initially, I received an E15 error. I evaluated for leaks but couldn't find anything except for water in the bottom of the dishwasher after about 30 minutes of the initial cycle. After discovering the hole in the flow tub, I order the part. It came a few days later & replace the part within a 15 minutes of receiving it. I didn't think it would resolve the issue but it did. Thank you!

I bought replacement wheels.
I put them on the post, and they snapped onto the vertical post very easily. Job done.

Popped the new one right on!