ADB1500AWS1 Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

1. Removed door inside plastic panel, 2. Removed additional screws holding panel to hinge brackets and control panel, 3. Figured out that this would all have been easier if I'd unhooked door hinge springs first (access from sides), 4. Removed isulation from old panel and reglued to new panel, 5 Reassembled, hooking up door springs last. Voila!

1. Turned of Power via circuit breaker
2. Opened Dishwasher
3. Removed back of door (11) hex screws with electric driver
4. Removed latch assembly
5. Pried contacts from switches
6. One switch was more difficult to pry loose than the other
7. You will probably need a plier
8. Switch or connector may break but latch assembly comes with switches, so you just need to be careful not to break the connectors
8 Plugged connectors into new switches on latch assembly
9. Replaced latch assembly
10. Replaced door with (11) hex screws - two top screws hold assembly in place
11. Turned on circuit breaker and tested machine
12. Finished

Comments: This latch assembly was better constructed than the original and I expect it to last the life of the machine. If one of the switches wasn't so difficult to pry loose, then the repair would have taken ten minutes less to repair. Well worth the effort. Repair time was probably 20-30 minutes.

I know that I have very hard water, but am reluctant to get a softener. I hope that changing the "guts" of the water delivery to my dishwasher will help...already replaced the filters which helped too... so far, it's a little better.

Installation was a breeze. Took off the upper, middle and lower spray arms. Had to loosen screws in filter assembly to remove old manifold. Popped everything into place... had to scrape mineral deposits off clips that support manifold and upper spray arms.
Easy...

You just remove the old unit and set in the new unit. the wheels were already connected.

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well

1 - Unscrew the back of the dishwasher with a hex-type driver. The latch assembly will be resting inside the outer door assembly. Make sure power is turned off to the washer - there are a couple of "hot" wires that will attach to the latch assembly.

2 - Unplug the wires from the old latch and plug into new latch assembly.

3 - Place the latch assembly back in place and re-attach the two door pieces together.

4 - Turn power back on at the breaker.

5 - Load dishwasher with the stuff that's been sitting in your sink.

6 - Gloat to spouse/significant other that you just saved $100 by fixing it yourself.

Just a quick note of thanks for shipping the replacement handle for my Maytag dishwasher.  Service was superquick and I was able to save big bucks (no service call).  I called on Saturday evening and the part was here on Tuesday.  The young lady who helped me was awesome and a Pens fan to boot.  I seldom send these types of emails but my experience was worth sharing.

I had two problems with the dishwasher. The latch handle was broken and a line crack developed on the control panel just above the handle area.

1. Ordered the Latch Handle (LATCH ASSY (BLACK) MA) (Series 10); Part # PS1559543 from PartSelect. (Maytag’s part number is 99003347). PS1559543 received from PartSelect includes the latch, latch handle, and two switches.
2. Disconnected power to dishwasher. (I put the washer on timer mode; the control panel lighted up; turned off power supply at the circuit breakers box; control panel light was off; confirming that power was cut).
3. Opened the door, removed the torx T-20 screws from the inner panel (I used a cordless drill and one of the star shaped screw tip from a cheap Craftmans screw tips set)
4. The inner panel slid down down enough to expose the latch assembly. Since the latch assembly was held in place by the two of the screws removed, it was now only attached to two sets of wires through the switches on both sides of the latch assembly.
5. The next thing to do was to connecting the wires to the new latch assembly. I chose to use the switches on the old latch assembly. There were plastic hooks holding them in place. The switches readily slid out by slightly push back the hooks. There is a little knob on the switch, and had to be pushed back to slide into the new latch assemble.
6. To fix the line crack, I used a toothpick to apply plastic glue on both sides of the crack. Then lined up the latch assembly with the control panel and the dishwasher’s inner internal panel, put back the two top middle two torx T-20 screw to hold them in place. Excess glue was wiped off with paper towel wet with isopropyl alcohol. This saved me the expense of ~$60 for a new control panel. Don’t use crazy glue, it will discolor the plastic.
7. Put back the screws at four corners, then the rest. I set the clutch of the cordless drill at 2 so that the screws were not over tightened.
8. Let the glue dried overnight. The crack was fixed, the latch assembly works like when the dishwasher was new.

After checking repair places who wanted $140-$200 to repair the handle (most of it labor and transportation of course) I checked this website and read the do it your self testimonials the first one being wendy from florida and figured if she could do it so could I. . . Wasn't quite as confident as her so found a handy person (charged me $30). It was a "piece of cake" -- remove the 11 screws (allen screwdriver), unclip the wires to the handle (pliers), clip in the new one, replace the screws. I could have done it myself. Took 15 minutes.

First, unplug your dishwasher from under the sink. Remove all eleven screws from the inside door panel. Lift door panel up. Old latch should lift right up. use a pair of pliars to grab and squeeze the base of the old metal connectors to pull out. Do not pull on the wires themselves. Plug in the new connectors from the new latch assy, fit into place, replace the inside door panel/screws.

This is a simple repair once you conquer the problem of removing the wire clips from the old switches. And conquer I did. All you need are regular and needle nose pliers, and a heavy pot or pan. Start by turning the power off and then remove the screws holding the inner door. Carefully lay the inner door to one side of the outer door and place a heavy pot or pan on the outer door to hold it down. The handle assembly is held on with screws removed from the inner door, so you can now lift it out. Check that there are no small broken pieces anywhere on the door. Use a marker to mark Right and Left on each clip.Then remove each old switch from the old handle assembly by carefully bending the two small clips on each switch back to release it and wiggle it free with the wire clip still attached. The wire clip is actually a one piece plastic cover. Then, do this: grip the old switch with the regular pliers and then slide the unopened point of the needle nose pliers between the switch and the wire clip; there is plenty of room. This will put sufficient pressure on the wire clip to slide it from the switch. Do not grip the wire clip with pliers, it will break. Once off, put the wire clips on the new switches and install the handle. Reinstall the inner door and test the handle. That should do it. A leisurely 20 minute or so repair job.

Not bad at all. Took inside door panel off. Removed broken part. A little tricky to remove/replace the electric nodes. Decided to use the old ones rather than using the new ones that came with the part. Just easier than removing wires. Put door back together with new handle in place. Good to go...

Ordered part. (Part was larger than the original . That is it dis not fir int supports tha same as rhe original. Hut i modifird the support by assin copper wire to fanten the heater to the supports.) The instalation was no pronlem with a little engineering. Works like a charm, Wife Happy Most important result.
Elmer

I assumed the broken door latch was causing the problem and not allowing the switches to make contact. Replacing the latch assembly was easy, but did not fix the problem, which must now be either the printed circuit board or the control panel. Either one is too expensive to justify spending on a machine that is several years old. In retrospect, an additional step in troubleshooting would have kept me from wasting time and money on the new door latch. I suggest that if you suspect the door latch is the problem, remove the screws holding the inside door panel, lift the switch assembly out of the door and insert it into the latch. See if you are getting 120 volts to the printed circuit board. If you are, but there is still no response from the control panel, the problem is not the door latch (even if it is broken, which they frequently are). Good luck figuring out if it is the printed circuit board or the control panel. At this point I decided to replace the machine with a basic Frigidaire model that used the old-fashioned timer switch. The last time I owned a machine like it, it lasted over 20 years!

Removed two screws at the top of the base washer. Three screws removed down both sides of the base washer. Lifted washer out enough to see the cable and spring connections. Removed cable and replaced with new and re-connected. Slid washer back into position and installed screws.

Removed the interior of door to get to latch. Removed broken latch and unplugged the wire after I turned off electricity. Reinstalled the new latch and interior door and turned the electricity back on and everything worked great.