ADB2200AWS Amana Dishwasher - Instructions

First I removed the lower spray arm by removing the middle retainer nut. Next remove the 3 screws holding the outer shroud in place. Next remove 6 screws holding the water pump top housing in place. Under this housing you will find the impeller which is retained by a screw. Check the impeller closely for cracks especially near the center hex portion of the impeller. Replace if you have any doubt of it's integrity. Next remove the lower pump housing that has the screen material in the center. What I found was the nylon part that attaches to the shaft of the motor was stripped so the impeller would spin in it's normal direction ( counterclockwise) but under the load of water it would not. So I ordered a new impeller and seal kit with a metal sleeve and chooper blade. Follow the instructions provided in the new kit a reassemble accordingly.

I had to remove the 4 screws holding the toe panel. Then I had to take out the one screw holding the floater switch housing in place. It snapped open to release the floater and that just lifted out. I put the new float in and snapped the new housing on. I put the screw back in to hold the housing in place attached the two wires to the switch and put the toe panel back on. It was all very easy to do and my first home repair went very well. thank you.

I went to PartSelect and found the parts pictorial. A replacement motor was listed for 3 series of the dishwasher. The series can be identified by the first 2 digits of the dishwasher serial number. Mine was 22 so I needed parts for the series 20 dishwasher.

According to the pictorial it looked like the motor seals were included with the replacement motor. When the motor arrived, I found the seals were not included. I called PartSelect and they shipped the seals to me with free overnight delivery.

I had no trouble disassembling the wash manifold and spray parts using the instructions provided with the replacement motor and the instructions from the Maytag repair manual that I found online. The motor is removed from the inside of the tub.... very nice. You don't need to remove the dishwasher from under the counter in order to get at the motor.

I made a mental note of the orientation of the faulty motor before I removed it. I installed the replacement motor with the same orientation along with the wash parts. The dishwasher worked successfully.

Thank you PartSelect.

After repairing this dishwasher 5 times during the past 8 years this one was real easy: Open door, unscrew inside cover and carefully move over to one side. Unplug soap dispenser, unscrew soap dispenser and remove. Fit new dispenser, reconnect it, put inner cover back in its place and secure it with the retained screws and you are back in operation. Hans.

I noticed there was a filter type of material in the bottom of the dishwasher that had a small tear in it and figured that was my problem. I removed the nut from the sprayer arm at the bottom of the tub, removed the sprayer arm, removed 3 screws of the plastic cover below that. Removed six screws on the plastic cover below that. Removed one screw fron the center of the black pump spinner wheel that allowed me to lift off that cover. Then I lifted out the flowplate assembly. Placed the new part in and reversed the steps. Works like new again! All for about $30...I am not trianed in any way and have no experience in this kind of thing but am motivated trying to avoid a large service bill for a few screws. I am so happy...Thanks PartSelect!

I first replaced the door seal and that did not stop the problem but noticed two little seals on the door. They were terribly worn so I unscrewed the door and cut the little washers that were holding the old ones in place. I replaced the seals and put the cut washers back on (I didn't have new ones) and it was done. All is well.

the new dishrack fit right in immediately with no tools needed. Delivery was prompt

Having read some of the other stories on this site, and not really sure what subpart was ACTUALLY broken, I ordered the latch assembly rather than the latch - and as another user mentioned, it's actually cheaper. I

Installation was an absolute breeze - the drill/driver is just added hedonism - but if you are going to use one, make sure it has a variable clutch so that you can put it on one fo the loosest settings to avoid stripping the screws.

I open the dishwasher door and held it open with a heavy pot and removed the screws (about 14) around the edge of the inside panel in the door.
The panel lifts way easily (if you remove the pot). The panel is attached to the latch assembly by two wiring harnesses - make note of which goes to which, they ARE IDENTICAL and you will not be able to tell them apart later.
I just lifted the broken assembly out, and fished out the other shards
Next, after repeated attempts to remove the harness from the switches in the assembly and failing, I just swapped the old switches still attached to the harness into the new assembly.
Place the assembly back in its slot, the panel fits back on fairly easily, drive the screws back in without stripping, and enjoy the silky feeling of a latch that shuts again
Enjoy beer

The initial repair was more involved due to figuring out how to get at the problem. A foam sealer strip located at the bottom of the inner door had lost it's seal. I first sent off for one and it was of relatively thin material. It was carefully installed but still leaked. I ordered another one from Part Select and it had thicker foam. It was installed right over the previously installed strip and made a tight seal. (knock on wood)

I pulled the unit from under the counter. the springs and cables are on the front sides of the dishwasher. I moved the insulation removed the broken spring and cables and replaced them with the new parts. just one side was broken, but I replaced both while I had the unit out.

It was very simple. After disconnecting the dishwasher, I pulled it out from it's space under the cabinet and turned it over on it's side. The pump twists into place and is held by two small bolts. It's very easy to get to and nothing else needs to be taken apart or disconnected. Used some silicon sealant to hold in place after replacing the pump and waited 24 hours to run. The pump was the problem and the dishwasher now runs fine.

Removed plastic lining from dishwasher door with torx screwdriver, then removed screw holding door latch assembly in place. Removed existing switch from door latch assembly and replaced.

This switch was not the correct one initially as it was a normally closed switch, whereas the existing switch was a normally open. Was able to pry open the switch and switch the contacts to normally open so it worked out in the end. Would recommend purchasing the complete latch assembly w/ switches if you aren't comfortable taking the switch apart.

Looks like Maytag knew this was a problem. My chopper sleeve (plastic) was stripped and causing the impeller to not spin. The replacement part was all metal and was very easy to replace the old one just by removing screws. The replacement looks to be very sturdy and should last a lot longer than the original. Thanks.

I removed the screws, and unplugged the old part, plugged in the new part and screwed it back in. It was so easy it took about 10 minutes. I surprised my husband when he came home to repair it, it was finished by me!!

took the bottom spray arm & lower plastic pieces out, unscrewed the impeller & replaced it. the original impeller which holds the disposal blade down & wore down & no longer retained the blade. snap.