CSG9900AAB Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

pulled old one out , cleaned the area & replaced with the new one.

Removed the old grease screen and cleaned the entire area thoroughly and replaced the screen

I had put up with a filter that got more and more raggedy every year, but I thought my 30 yr. old range/grill top was too old for me to find an replacement filter. What a great service you offer. I found you by web-surfing, typed in the model #, and presto--you sent me the shiny new filter. All I had to do was pop it in and throw away the nasty grill (after washing the scent off to keep the bears out of my Colorado garbage.) Thank you!

Cleaned out the downdraft cove, inserted the new filter, and put old filter in garbage can. Laughing. Thanks. Wish you had a FAQ's hotline. I'd like to know if the radiant inserts fit the older coil-type models.

Replaced old parts with new ones.

Repair is simple as long as you TURN OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER first. After that, take off the cover over the switches (pull knobs off, remove 2 screws and lift off the cover), pull the bad switch straight up off the gas valve, pull the two wires off the switch, plug them back onto the new switch, place it back over the gas valve stem, reassimble the cover and knobs, turn back on the circuit breaker, and verify that ignition switch works. Not a hard repair. (HINT: while you are waiting on the replacement part, you can light the bad burner by turning on the opposite burner ignition switch and using that "spark" to light the other burner.)

I did only tokeout the four tips balves like a screw 1/2 in. And replace the otherones and is it. Less than 5 minutes for all four to replace

unplug the oven and pull it away from the wall. looking at the oven from the back, the spark module is at the bottom on the lower left. there is a two piece sheetmetal cover over the area of the spark module. use a phillips head screwdriver to remove five screws and the covers come off. the spark module is the blue cube with four push on wire connectors. all you have to do is hold the new one next to the old one and swap one wire at a time. both were clearly marked with identical numbers and letters. really nothing to it. it took me longer to clean the back of the oven than to replace the module. the old module was eaton part number Y-54052-3. the new one is eaton part number Y-054052-34.

I turned off the burner and allowed it to cool. I then checked the website for the part and also got a new grease filter and grill grate. When the parts came, I plugged in the new grill burner, replaced the grill grates, and dropped the filter in place. Total time was about 8 or 10 minutes--most of which was opening the packages. The grill burner is designed so that it can be removed and replaced with a standard 2 burner unit. No tools were needed. I was glad to find the parts for my 17 year old dual-fuel range.

In oven I unscrewed orfice; replaced with new orfice. On stove top the people who make it sent a kit for $11.00, plus S & H. I installed it as per instructions.

Removed four screws; withdrew two burners; set two new burners in place; installed same old screws. That was it. When I turned them on to adjust the flame, they came on almost instantly and no adjustment was needed.

Wife loves the nice new look.

Contacted customer service via email. Included a description of the problem as well as a photo that clearly showed that the Front Burner Assembly was, in fact, NOT an assembly when it arrived.

Nobody even acknowledged my email.
This was a $140 assembly.

Never again will use these guys for repair parts.

I had an appliance repair rep do the replacement. He made it look relatively easy.
The repair man first turned off the breaker to the range and confirmed there was no power to the range.
After lifting off the range top cover exposing the burner igniters, he unhooked and removed the igniters. He opened the lower oven door exposing the screws which hold the front knob plate in position. He took those out. After loosening the knob plate he was able to unscrew and raise the inside cover which exposes the wires and the spark module.
My spark module was located in the front left corner area tucked a little under the knob plate. That is another reason why he had to loosen the plate. The replacement part was a universal part so he had to do a little work on the wire connectors but it only took a couple of minutes. Once he configured the wire ends, he was able to plug in the new spark module and put the top back together again.
The repair man knew exactly what to do and made it look relatively easy. I did not want to tackle this problem because I did not know exactly where the spark module was since some models have them in the back of the oven and the oven has to come out from the wall. Also, the wire connections had to be worked with a little and he knew exactly how to do that.
The repair man took about 45 minutes from beginning to end with most of that time spent getting to the part and putting it back together. The replacement itself took only about 10 minutes.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net

removed 2 screws to access the ignitor. Discinnected the wires from the old ignitor and slid the old ignitor off. Installed the new ignitor and attached wires.