MEC5536BAB Maytag Cooktop - Instructions

I ran numerous tests to eliminate the on/off switch and to ensure the wires were not defective. Thus I came to the conclusion it must be the burner was defective. I ordered the part from parts.com. I received the part in less time than what was advertised. The part arrived in good condition. I placed the part in and it worked just like new.

Thank You

One important note is you can't buy the control for the right front burner (Custom Control) by itself. This kit included both the burner, control and wiring harnesses. This is a retrofit, I am assuming a known problem with the original design. This repair requires the cooktop to be removed from counter, turned upside down, and disassembled. It comes with a 45 step instruction sheet thats pretty good. Let me point out a few things that are helpful: 1) The screws to attach the control to the switch plate are too short. These are 8/32 screws 1/4 inch long. I had to go to the hardware store and buy two screws 3/8 long and cut them, since 3/8 is too long of course. Follow directions carefully, you need to remove the bottom cover and fan to disconnect it before taking the burner box completely off. The shaft of the new control is shorted than the other controls so you need to put a "filler" in the burner nob. THey suggest you use the rubber gasket from the old switch so make sure not to throw it away. One other note, since this is a retrofit, you need a drill. You need to drill out two slots in the switch plate to mount the new burner control. Good Luck.

Just as others said. Remove top holdown bolts with nut driver. Prop range top up.
Use a pair of plyers to remove wires (make sure you have a diagram to restore).
Use screwdriver to remove element hold down spring and wire holder. Replace element and replace wires and screws.

First I cut electric power off removed the two screws that hold glass top lifted up and removed two screws that hold element in place. I disonnected the wires and then pulled the element out

Slipped new knob on,done.

My dual zone burner would trip my breaker anytime i tried to turn it on. All the other burners would work fine. I searched online and found a way to test my burner, which was shorted or grounded out. I purchased a new burner from the site...It was as cheap or cheaper than other sites. It showed up a few days quicker than i was expecting..I also replaced the switch to the burner, just as a precaution and to save time since i already had the top glass off of my burners....EASY JOB!

Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

The new element wiring placements were totally different from the old element. Lucky for me the lettering printed on the terminals for each pole was the same as on the old one. It was just a matter of matching up each terminal pole lettering. The instructions that came with the new element were of no help at all. Youtube was my best helper.

Verified via ohmmeter that one of the two burners was open and not working. I also tested the switch and that appeared to be working okay. I then took out the old unit and compared it to the new one, and found that they upgraded the new unit. I followed the instructions to match the labeled parts and move the wire to the newer location of that. i.e the old one had 2B and 2A at the top and 1B and 1A at the bottom. The new one had 2B and 1B at the top and 2A and 1A at the bottom. It did come with wire extenders and insulated tubes on top of them, and extra to cover additional. After a couple of tries, I decided which wire I needed to use on which (small connectors to match small, and large to match large.) In a second try I decided to flip it over to have it face up instead of down. Overall, it worked out very well, and I was very pleased when I did the power up test and everything worked as desired.

I found on youtube Also we marked each wire with masking tape 1A and 1B, 2A and 2B. The wires were the same color.

Followed the instructions in the video provided by PartSelect, which was very accurate. They only problem I have encountered is that the wiring from the old element compared to the new element do not match up 100%. I had to call Whirlpool today and schedule a Tech to come out and see if they can resolve the problem. Right now, when the burner is turned on, both the inner and outer elements turn on.

Went well. Husband, who has some appliance repair experience, did repair in less than a hour. Replacement burner was not an exact duplicate of original but he was able to adjust for that.

Access to burner nothing like on-line videos:

1) Remove 4 screws under front control panel. (Oven door needs to be open.)
2) Remove 2 flat head screws on sides of control panel. This will loosen control panel. Capture control panel to keep from hanging from wires/connectors. I used hooks made from a wire hanger.
3) Remove 2 screws to remove two steel panels on either side of stove.
4) Remove rear screw of the 2 front screws now exposed and 2 rear screws near top of stove.
5) Carefully flip over glass top being careful not to pull on the wires.
6) Identify burner to be replaced. Note 2 numbers where two clamps are attached to burner.
7) Using 3/8” nut driver, remove screws to allow removal of burner. Remove wires per included instructions. Remove burner.
8) Place new burner under clamps and align to the holes by the two numbers noted in step 6 above.
9) Connect wires to new burner as per included instructions.
10) Reverse removal steps.

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