62942979790 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

turned off power to stove top..lifted unit out unscrewed top and switch had 2 screws re-placed switch and put back together.. make easy $100 plus switch

verified that the heating element was at fault by measuring it with ohmmeter. There are 3 contacts on the outside of the element. Resistance between center contact and either outside contact should read something close to 0 ohm, if it is good, and if it is burned, it will read open circuit (infinite resistance). Wanted to make sure that this is not the switch, which I replaced a few months ago. Before I disconnected all the connectors from the element I made picture of all the connections, just in case I forgot what gets connected to what (didn't use it, though). Installing the new element was very easy. Most work is done getting access to the element. Repair went smoothly, range works fine, now.

The dual burner on my range wasn't working—the inner, smaller portion would heat up, but the outer portion (for larger pots/pans) would not. I searched online and discovered that the element is easily replaced, and Yay! It was! I had difficulty finding the model number of my range, as it wasn't in any of the obvious, suggested places. I had to get help to slide my range away from the wall (which was the most difficult part of this project!), but in doing so, found a metal tab on the back of the range, near the top, that flipped up to reveal the model and serial #s! From that info, I was able to find and order the correct replacement element for the burner that wasn't working, and in less than an hour, had it fixed!

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

1. Remove power from unit. 2. Removed 1/4" sheet metal screw from lower blower vent tube. 3. Lifted the unit above the counter and placed two 1x2" boards between the unit and counter. To remove the Stove Top to get access to the Element you must remove 8 each 1/4" sheet metal screws from the bottom side of the Stove Top attaching flange. 3 each screws on the forward and aft side and 1 each on the left and right side. (Note, the 8 each 1/4" attaching screws are at the top of the Stove Top attaching flange.) 4. Remove the Vent Grill and locate the 2 each cross point screws on the center left and right side of the opening. (Note. Due to the limited space, I used a right angle cross point driver.) 5. Remove Stove Top. 6. Tag electrical connections. Remove and replace Element. 7. Turn on power and check Element. Remove power and Reassemble Unit.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

Remove the connectors (ID where it goes on the new item). Unscrew the two screws and remove the broken radiant filaments. Install and screw the new radiant filaments; then, connect back the connectors to it's proper connections.

The repairs was really easy. All you had to do was remove the screws holding the glass top surface down, raise it up, then start by pulling one wire at the time and plugging it into the new element. Then bolt the glass top surface down and it was ready to use, good as new.

Lifted the range top about 2 1/2 inches, removed the ceramic top and replaced the burner. Tested the burner before replacing the top. Everything worked fine.

We lifted the glass top, uninstalled the old burner and installed the new burner in it's place. It worked right away - and is still working. No other tricks the new burner was a perfect fit.

Unscrewed three screws securing the glass top. Lifted glass top and wedged it open. Took a picture of the current wiring. Removed old burner.Compared male contact points on new and old burner. Plugged new burner in appropriately. Note: The new burner is MUCH hotter than the old one.