9114282590 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- PATRICK from WASHINGTON, DC
- Parts Used:
- WB17X5113
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
I had 2 of the terminals where the burner coil plugs into completely fry
First thing to do is to KILL THE POWER. The last thing you want is for two leads feeding power to a range coil burner "hot" when you are working on them. After power is off, I removed the coils and set them aside. The terminals had "fried" apparently from to much cooking with hot oils and having the "over splash" working its way down to where the coils plug into the terminals and over time the oil getting in the terminals causes shorting / frying of the leads / contacts.
Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.
To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).
After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.
I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.
Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.
Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.
Job done:-)
Anyway, after removing the heat coils I removed the drip pans and cleaned up the area underneath before working on terminals. I like a clean area when I work. I then unscrewed the "brackets" that house the terminals with a Phillips screwdriver and pulled out the assembly.
To completely remove the assembly I cut with a straight razor the existing heat shrink around the wire nuts (These two had been replaced once before. On first go around, I just cut the terminal assembly off and stripped the wire to attach the new terminals). Then I removed the wire nuts and the old assembly. After that I trimmed the wire to the correct length on the new terminal assembly and checked that the wire from the stove was in good shape. Upon confirming I had a good lead, I connected the new terminal leads to the stove leads and put the heat shrink over the connections. I used a lighter to "shrink" the heat shrink to the new connection (not having a proper heat shrink gun, which most of us don't have, the lighter works well as long as you are careful and do not let the lighter heat up to much. Let the lighter cool (esp. if a plastic disposable type or it will melt and ruin the lighter or burn your fingers).
After that I cleaned the area where the terminal block bracket connects to the stove (it gets a bit gunked up over time) before screwing in the new bracket / assembly in place with my screwdriver.
I gave the drip pans a good cleaning, adjusted the new terminal brackets so they were even / centered, cleaned once more the area under the drip pan and replaced the drip pans. The types of pans I have are one piece with a hole for the heat coil leads to go through.
Before placing the coils back in the terminals I took a strip of medium grade, 220 grit, sand paper (you could use steal wool or small wire brush) and cleaned the terminal leads (the steal end that plugs into the terminal only, careful not to damage the burner). This was needed as the leads had accumulated some residue from the same dynamics that caused the burning / melting of the terminal leads and terminal block. Once the leads were clean I fitted them into the place in the new terminal blocks and drip pan grooves.
Finally I turned back on the breaker to the stove and cranked on the burners to test out the connection and that everything was working A-OK.
Job done:-)
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- Customer:
- Marlene from Rancho Murieta, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10265, WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
We had been searching for burner bowls for our GE range (10+ years old) and could not find replacements for them. I found the burner bowls we needed on partselect.com . I was able to easily place the order and the burner bowls were delivered to me the next day.
No repair necessary, but the service was excellent!
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- Customer:
- Carol from Brookfield, WI
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
I needed new drip pans
I lifted out the burners and took out the old drip pans ans then replaced the burners. However the 8 inch pans were bigger than the old ones and they do not fit properly. They are sitting on top of the stove and not inserted like they should be. I will have to look elsewhere to find ones that fit.
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- Customer:
- Pat from PALM BAY, FL
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
old one did not fit right
took the old one out and dropped the new one in, replaced the electric burner and done
thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself
thw worse part was paying as much for s&h as i did for the part itself
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- Customer:
- John from Buffalo, NY
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
replace a drip pan
OK, I put the drip pan under the burner. Without a single problem.
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- Customer:
- Mary Catherine from silver spring, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB17X5113
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
needed to replace a receptacle
I had already removed the worn out part. The new part came with wire joint covers and connecting them was fine. The brace that came with the part did not actually fit onto the stove burner well; so I cleaned and used the older brace - but, when I went to put it back in place, the bearings on the original self locking bolt were stripped. So, I had to find a replacement bolt with a nut. Found that I had some of those on hand. Once the brace was firmly in place, the rest was easy!
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- Customer:
- JAMES from SAN JOSE, CA
- Parts Used:
- WB17X5113
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
terminal block not working
simple remove the old one, strip old wires to make longer, twist wires together, put on wire nuts.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from Richmond, VA
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10265, WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Needed new burner bowls
No repairs, really-just replacement, but I have been looking for the burners for three and one half years, and PartSelect had exactly what I needed for this old stove!
Theyalso had the electric element that I bought in the next order.
Theyalso had the electric element that I bought in the next order.
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- Customer:
- Sandy from Olney, MD
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The original drip pans had rusted and needed replacement.
We tried to find the replacement pans at the local hardware store and were disappointed in that although they were cheaper, they were not deep enough to handle the heating elements. We were delighted to find that the parts from PartSelect.Com were genuine GE parts... installed in minutes and were delivered VERY quickly!
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- Customer:
- Suzanne from Brigthon, MI
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the drip bowls were a mess- rusty and beyond cleaning
I removed the old drip pans, cleaned the range top, washed and installed the new drip pans and put the old pans, box and packing materials in the trash. In only 12 minutes my range top looked like new and the mess was picked up. Now, if I could just get the rest of the kitchen looking that good that fast!
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- Customer:
- Lynn from Dallas, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB17X5113
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The heating coil on the stove blew, or wouldn't work.
I simply replaced the female part of the plug that the coil plugs in to. I figured this would do the job. I replaced the part,
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- Customer:
- Angelo from Phoenix, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
drip ban needed replacing
removed heating element,removed old drip pan.added new drip pan,replaced heating element.Took less that 3 min.
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- Customer:
- Bet from Bothell, WA
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
the burner trays just needed replaced for an 85 year old senior citizen
Removed burner trays, pulled out heater unit, cleaned up inside of area around all four burners, slipped the burner trays back in and pushed the heater unit back into place.
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- Customer:
- Bobby from Trinity, TX
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266, WB31K10265
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
old wore out parts
just put in the new part
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- Customer:
- Robert from Bar Harbor, ME
- Parts Used:
- WB31K10266
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Burned/scorched corroded drip bowl
No brainer. No tools. Remove burner, lift out old drip bowl, drop in new one, plug in burner, voila! Done. 10 seconds.
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