9114282790 Kenmore Cooktop - Instructions

First and foremost I read each of the blogs from your site from other people who have repaired this part. It was great.
First I unplugged the stove. Removed the back plate of the stove by unscrewing 6 screws. Removed the heating element & drip pan. I lifted up the stove top to examine the receptable, and removed the receptable held in place by a single screw using the nutdriver.
Once it was removed, I cut the wires attached to the receptacle with pliers. I screwed on the new receptacle, and taped the new wires to the old ones which led back to the back panel where they were attached to the switch.

By doing so, I was able to easily lead the new wires to the back side of the stove panel. I removed each old terminal wire and replaced it with the new one. (I had read in a previous blog that the polarity of the new wires didn't matter). I replaced the drip pan, and heating element, turned the switch and everything was working just great! I replaced the back panel, and that was it!
As you probably can guess I have never attempted to repair any type of appliance...ever! But your website and the people who shared their stories empowered me to do the job. Thanks so much!

First I removed the burners and pulled the stove out to get the back cover off. Removed the back cover after main power was shut off. Removed old burner terminal blocks and replaced with new ones. Replaced back cover and pushed stove back into place. Turned on main power to stove checked burners and they worked. DO NOT REPLACE OR DO ANY ELECTRICAL WORK ON ANY MAJOR APPLIANCE WITH OUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE MAIN POWER SOURCE.

Since we got the stove,this is the second time we've repaired these connectors. The first time the connectors came with pre-stripped wires, wire nuts and heat shrink tubing. This set came with pre-attached spade terminals, so I had to crimp the mate to the wires in the stove then put heat shrink tubing on the splices. I also had to bend the part of the connector that mounts onto the stovetop. These had a horizontal tab for the mounting screw rather than the vertical design that our ranges uses. If the connectors designed for the earlier model were available, it would simplify installation since shrink wrap and wire wraps came in that kit and the mounting bracket would fit correctly.

Simple ! I unplugged the units,removed the old drip bowls and replaced them with the new ones.

Just removed the elements and inserted the new drip pans. Could not have been easier.

Received complete burner receptacle. Decided to take off stove back to plug in directly to burner control.
Turn on stove on low. No heat. Bad coil element. Checked for power at coil element. Switched another burner. It heated immediaetly. Have to order or find a burner element

i removed it and installed the new ones.

Removed the back cover with a socket tool, unplugged the old terminal and plugged in the new one. there is a screw holding the terminal block. so easy.

Shut the power off and unscrewed facial hardware ,unplugged terminal and unscrewed hold down bracket and redid everything that I mentioned above. For a rookie it was a piece of cake.

I turned the power off to the stove (very important). then I unplugged the heating element from the terminal. I then unscrewed the terminal from the range top and pulled the terminal through to expose enough wire to do the job. I then proceeded to cut one wire from the old terminal and twist the new wire onto the wire that goes to the switch. Then I capped it off with the electric cap that came with the new terminal. then I covered the exposed wires with the sleeve that came with new terminal. Then I did the same exact thing for the second wire. After that was all done I put everything back together and turned the power back on.

It was as easy as you said. I took the back off, removed the screws holding the terminal, un-hooked it and put the new on on. Replaced the back and wa-la! Working burner

Disconnected power supply to range, pull top back metal cover, pull wires from burner on/off switch,and removed one screw that holds block in place. Installed new terminal block by placing screw back on block & placing wires back on the on/off switch.

Pull out the range. Pull out the electric plug. Unfasten the back panel. Raise the range top. Replace the terminal block in exactly the same position as the old one. Put everything back.

This is the third time I have replaced it so it is very easy now. This time I spent a little more time making sure the burner element prongs were just just like the others. Must have been a little loose in the block.

I first unpluged the stove then removed the 6" element then I removed the back panel on the stove located the wires that went to that element unplugged them and removed the block then fished the wires through for new terminal block installed in terminal block bracket then pluged in wires put element in place put back panel back in place plugged stove checkout heat on element good to go 20 min

Remove the element and pan. Unscrew the bracket holding the old terminal. The terminal has adequate wire to pull out. Found area where insulation wasn't brittle. Cut old wires and stripped them to expose 1/2 inch of wire. Attached wires from new terminal with wire nuts. Placed heat-shrink tubing over each assembly and shrank it with a heat gun. Retained the bracket from the old terminal, since it looked like it would hold the terminal assembly a bit more firmly than the new bracket. Reassembled in reverse order. Presto -- once again disappointing my wife in her desire for new appliances!