JEC9536ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Unplugged the power cord first. Opened oven door and removed the two screws that held the stove top glass down. Lifted the glass top and removed the four wires connected to the element. I taped the wires to the lid in the pattern they were attached to the element. remove the element from the brackets. The new element was an exact match. reversed the sequence. Put a pot of water on and boiled a hot dog! Perfect! Great part and speedy delivery!!

This is a two module cook top That I have, 2 burners in each module. I took it apart take the damaged one out and replaced with the new one, put it back together and turn it on. Heeeyyyy it works. Thanks.(and I'm not an electrician)

1st - UNPLUGGED appliance from electrical source!! then removed screws to open ceramic stove top, disconnected wires from dead element, plugged in wires to new element, closed stove top, turned on burner - it worked!!

only problem is that "hot burner indicator" does NOT stay lit after burner is turned off!

To be honest, it was nothing much. Had to reach and remove metal collars that were left behind around the pins, with needle-nose pliers. Put in the new knobs, and we were done.

What really left me impressed was 1) that the rep sent me pictures of the suspected knobs over email so I could identify them easily, and 2) I was expecting to wait for a week but I had the parts the next afternoon!!

The hardest part was finding the part number...and that wasn't all that bad. Perfect match; perfect fit.

Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.

One important note is you can't buy the control for the right front burner (Custom Control) by itself. This kit included both the burner, control and wiring harnesses. This is a retrofit, I am assuming a known problem with the original design. This repair requires the cooktop to be removed from counter, turned upside down, and disassembled. It comes with a 45 step instruction sheet thats pretty good. Let me point out a few things that are helpful: 1) The screws to attach the control to the switch plate are too short. These are 8/32 screws 1/4 inch long. I had to go to the hardware store and buy two screws 3/8 long and cut them, since 3/8 is too long of course. Follow directions carefully, you need to remove the bottom cover and fan to disconnect it before taking the burner box completely off. The shaft of the new control is shorted than the other controls so you need to put a "filler" in the burner nob. THey suggest you use the rubber gasket from the old switch so make sure not to throw it away. One other note, since this is a retrofit, you need a drill. You need to drill out two slots in the switch plate to mount the new burner control. Good Luck.

parts came on time and the repair was just remove the old and replace with new.

Removed old knobs. Removed the metal insert from around the post from the old knobs with needle nose pliers. Installed new knobs. Easy fix.

Remove old knobs and remove old grommets. Insert new grommets, install new knobs.

remove old knob, plce new knob on.

Took old knobs off & put new ones on.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

Removed cooktop, wiring and coil. Marked where wires went on limiter
tabs. Ordered coil 1200 Watt, received a 1500 one. Sent back to PS with prepaid shipping label {great}. New one had a different limiter tab arrangement. The instructions included warned this but doesn't tell you where to put the wiring. Instructions say to remove the old limiter and put it on the new coil but this can not be physically be done plus who would want an old limiter on a new coil.
Found a YOU TUBE video on how to test and place wires on limiter switches which shows the number letter sequence on the ceramic part. Maybe PS will put that info in their instructions. Coil works great !!

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.