JED8430BDS Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Just slipped the perfect parts in.

Removed old knob by pulling straight up. The shaft the knob fits on is D shaped. Simple align knob with D on shaft and push down. Problem solved.

the filter fit because the scale in the photo allowed me to choose which one to buy!

This repair was extremely easy. I was able to lift off the broken fan knob with some pliers. The new knob easily fit and the new knob works like a dream!

Before installing the new part I made a metal coller to fit around the bottom of the stem. It gives the knobs the support that is lacking on the original part. I did this to all the knobs previosly and never had any more broken knobs.

Part is a new design. Had to remove all the housing for the old knob. Don't leave anything in the hole. A bit apprehensive, but it works great.

Parts aged from wear

Remove blower assy. Lift cook top. Remove side screws on cooktop to cooktop frame. Lift glass cook top. Replace fan switch. Reverse disassembly.

I ordered a switch and got a switch knob. So it is still not working.

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

This Jennifer-Air cooktop has a black Schott Ceran surface. I unplugged the unit and disconnected the vent duct then removed the unit from the cabinet and shifted it 90 degrees to gain access to 10 screws that hold surface to body. Connections for replacement burner are slightly different than the original. I photographed wiring/connectors them removed the old burner. I removed mounting clips from old burner and installed them on the replacement (required two small tapping holes in aluminum case of replacement burner element). Installed new element and attached connectors (wires). No joy, outside element still did not heat - placed a dual element switch on order (have not received it yet). To be continued.

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

1. remove corlan cover from base of unit 2. study original wire pattern of old burner and switch; write down pattern on paper 3 gently remove wires with needle nose pliers.4 replace with new burner and switch with color coded wire pattern copying the original wiring 5 reinstall corlan cover on base. remember to shutdown cooktop from either circuit breaker or fuse in order not to electrocute yourself while working remember wires are live until shut down from main source of power