C201 Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Turned off electricity at the circuit box. Removed four screws from panel cover that housed the switch. disconected the wires from the old switch and replaced the old switch with the new one reconected the wires put the panel cover back on. voila done.

Important: Down load the helpful assembly diagram for the fan motor and study it for a few minutes. It's very straight forward. Also a good idea is to remove the bottom panel which comes off easy before starting.

My only problem was removing the existing blower/fan wheel without damaging it once I had the assembly on the work bench. It was rusted on tight and managed to remove after a few tries using penetrating oil. The wheel is in stock and I'd suggest buying a new one along with the new motor if I had to do the job again.

Bottom line; the fan motor fit perfect but did have to re-use part of the old existing electric pig tail because the motor does not come with the factory type motor terminal connectors. By using three twist on wire connectors was back in business. The down draft vent works like new.

Wife is happy...

Wade

The part we received from your supply store, a Maytag part, was in no way a direct replacement for the original Jenn-Air switch. I had to shave material carefully off all sides of the supplied switch, including the plastic flanges that were to hold the switch in place. Consequently, there was nothing left to hold the shaved-down switch in the opening. I had to rig two pieces of material to attach to the back of the switch to hold the switch, roughly, in place.
So, a poorly fitting replacement part that happens to function acceptably after an hour's work.
The repair: The balance of the repair was unremarkable. I simply removed the metal plate that the control knobs are mounted on, pulled it out of the rangetop, and removed the old switch. I snipped the wires, as your instructions said, nutting off the ground wire which is not used. I used a compression tool to attach the two wires to the quick-connect connectors you supplied (many home repair folks would not have a crimp tool for this job). The rest of the time was spent reshaping the switch you sent to fit into the too-small mounting hole.
I then simply returned the switch mounting plate, fastened with screws, to the range top.

I recently purchased an older home. The cooktop is aged and has not been properly maintained. With the parts I ordered from parts select I was able to bring my cooktop back to almost new! I am very pleased with the quick service parts select provided!

I have bought several drip bowls over the years. They all seemed to not fit just right. These are perfect! Thanks!

Worst part of the job was removing the old screws that held the two old rectecles in place for the two burners I repaired. Once the screws were removed cut the wires stripped them and used the porceliean wire nuts provided with the kit. Easy job and good instructions.

I used pliers to remove old knobs and just inserted the new ones. I had tried using cheap generic knobs that did not work.

knobs fit perfectly

Shut off the breaker! Removed down draft grill. Removed two phillips head screws and lifited switch plate out. Removed switches (2) and made wiring diagram as I went. Looked up Jenn-Air on line and ordered parts. Lost wirihng diagram in the process but still had two switches wired . Replaced all four switches. Everything working great. However while I was waiting on switches to arrive, somebody at the house was fooling with the switch plate and broke the on red indicater lens so now I'm ordering that. Oh well....

FIRST OPENED THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. Snipped the three wires, capped the white one with the ceramic insulating nut and crimped the spade connectors to the other two. Then CAREFULLY filed one side of the rectangular hole in the escutcheon until iwas wide enough to accept the new swich. Drew the two wires up through the hole, attached them to the switch and pushed the switch into the hole until it snapped in place. Reseated the escutcheon and reconnected the two screws. Closed the circuit breaker, pressed the switch and VOILA, on went the fan. Be careful not to let filings fall into the electrical stuff. Need crimping tool & file.

The lids are fastened to the underside of the unit by rivets....3 to each lid.
I used a cordless drill and small drill bit to drill through the rivets to remove the old lids and remains of the rivets.
The new lids are easily fastened back using a rivet gun ( about $20 in Lowes) using small 1/8th aluminum rivets.
No real problems.
1 thing to note is that the drill bit will pass through the old rivet by about 1/4 inch before it comes up against the upper level of the BBQ floor so do not drill any deeper.The aluminum rivets are easy to drill through and you will easily feel when the rivet is drilled through.

First pulled the two screws holding the control with the switches. Then I unscrewed the nut holding the 6" burner switch and disconnected the wires on the switch and replaced the switch with the new one. Replaced the control unit in the range top and tested the repair.

blower wheel was caked with dried grease clumps; replaced blower wheel, urethan foam and 3 motor isolators; blower/fan no longer vibrating cooktop.

Searched for parts and found PartsSelect to substantially underprice Sears for same items. removed old recept. with a screwdriver, no problem, had a little difficulty getting new wires attached as hand wouldn't fit under burner area and the wires were short. Also the recept. bracket screw hole was a little tight for the screw so I had to "stretch" it out a bit. Replacing drip pans and rings was a simple change out of the old, no tools needed for that. Overall an easy job.

I first had to purchase the replacement motor which was quoted from a high of $236 to a low at graingers of$100. 00. The counterman at graingers removed the blower fan from the motor for me with a special long handled allen key. I then degreased and cleaned the blower fan. I had to cut off the screws on the motor and replace the 3 motor isolators and the urethane foam around the motor. I had to thread the 3 wires from the new motor through the bx cable from the old motor and reattach the fan to the motor. Anyone wanting more detailed informatioin may contact me at:mablume@optonline. Net