CCE3451W Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Donald from North Highlands, CA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Left front burner went out.
Removed 8 screws of retainer holding glass top to box.. Pulled 5 knobs and glass top and set aside. Popped 2 retaining clips holding burner , removed them and transferred to new burner (#12 and #48 position). Used wide blade screwdriver to facilitate removing terminals from old burner and attached terminals to new burner.Popped retaining clips into crossbeam, put glass top on and 8 screws back into retainer. Works great.
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- Customer:
- Tom from Lenexa, KS
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner switch on stove top burned out
First I turned off the circuit breaker at the control panel to my Jenn-Air stove-top. At 220-volts, don't take any chances with electricity!
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
Then I removed two screws that hold the burner switch panel in place and lifted up the panel to expose the wires that are connected to all 4 of the burner switches, the exhaust fan and pilot lights that indicate if a burner is turned on.
I used a circuit tester to determine that the power was indeed off to the switches. Again, it is extremely important to respect 220-volts of electricity.
I ensured that all of the wires were already labeled the same as the terminal connections on the switch (i.e. H-1, H-2, P, etc.). If they are not, label them yourself with masking tape around each wire. Then I removed each of the wires connected to the burned out switch with a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Next I removed the two screws attaching the burner switch to the panel.
To install the new switch, repeat all of these directions in reverse, making sure to attach each labeled wire to the correct terminal on the burner switch.
Turn the circuit back on at the circuit breaker. Then test the burner switch and see if the burner heats up. Hopefully, you'll be cooking in no time...............
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- Customer:
- Richard from Howell, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
burner would not get hot, switch did not feel right
It would have been nice if basic instructions were supplied ( eg. how to remove switch panel ) but it went rather smoothly.
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
First killed power the electric stove.
I then removed the screws from the bottom of the panel and then pried the top of the control panel down and then out. I copied the positioning and wire colors.Removed wires from prongs, removed the two screws, replaced old switch with new one .
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- Customer:
- Anthony from Palmyra, VA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
One of the electric stove top elements had burnt out
The repair was very easy. There were 3 screws under the front lip which had to be removed. This allowed the smooth glass top to be removed, tilt and pull forward. This exposed the burners and the unit I purchased was a direct replacemt for the burnt unit. All I had to do was remove the electrical clips from the old unit and put them on the new unit. There were 3 spring elements, each with 2 screws, which held the unit in place.
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- Customer:
- Arthur from Cardinal, VA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Front element would not turn on
I removed the 4 screws that held on the front panel as well as the knob of the defective switch. With the panel free, I pulled the wire connections from the rear of the switch with needle-nose pliers. I then removed the 2 screws which secured the switch and removed it. I then reversed the process with the new switch. It could not have been easier.
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- Customer:
- Al from Monroe Twp, NJ
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
broken switch
Took the (6) screws holding the top of the stove out, then removed the switch screws(2). Then lifted the top, so as I could reach and get at the switch. And then I repeated the above. It was alot easier the second time. Duh I erred the first time and replaced the wrong one and before I relized it, I opened the switch to check out. All in all. I still got satisfaction from doing it myself. Thanks Parts Select
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- Customer:
- Vernon from Wells, ME
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burner got excessively hotand couldn't be regulated
The hardest part was breaking the caulk seal between the range and the cabinet. An extra set of hands made the job easier, by holding the panel while I connected the switch. The switch was delivered promptly and I am very happy with Parts Select. I found the other repair stories very helpful.
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- Customer:
- Randall from Eureka, MO
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Any setting selected (1 thru 9) would result in the surface burner going to full hot
Opened oven door, took four screws out of the front control panel, removed the two screws holding the burner control switch to the front panel, removed the wires from the old switch one at a time and installed them on the new switch. secured the new switch to the front panel, put the four screws back into the front panel, and closed the oven door. Real easy repair.
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- Customer:
- Jack A from Biloxi, MS
- Parts Used:
- W10823707
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
front burner would not heat
simply took off smooth surface top flipped it upsde down on a towel. unbolted the entire burner assembly. matched connections with the new burner with limit switch. replaced smooth surface top plugged it in. no problems. extremely easy fix no repair charges.
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- Customer:
- Jerry from Sedro-Woolley, WA
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers
Lefrt Front Burner Quit Working
Removed two nut screws (accessed with oven door open) with nutdriver, panel dropped out. Transferred wiring one-by-one to new switch, removed old switch with allen wrench, installed new switch, replaced panel. Done! However, the problem is not corrected and all other possibilities have been explored with no solution in site. Ideas needed.
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- Customer:
- James from Dunnellon, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The 6in burner would go to max heat regardless of the setting.
Un screwed the two screws in the downdraft section enough to release the unit that holds the surface burner controls.Then removed the control nob, unscrewed the two screws that holds the switch in the unit, removed the wires, making sure the color of the wires were placed on the same contact point. Put it back together and it worked
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
fine.Of course I did shut off the power before starting any of the above
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- Customer:
- Dennis from AIKEN, SC
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Element burn out. Would not heat
Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done
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- Customer:
- Seth from Old Orchard Beach, ME
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
Replaced Burned-out Cooktop Element
Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.
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- Customer:
- William from ARCADIA, FL
- Parts Used:
- W11120791
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
worn out burner switch
easy enough. Before you start, draw a picture of where the wires go on the old switch ( or take a picture).
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- Customer:
- John from Maple Valley, WA
- Parts Used:
- W10823704
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Right rear burner under glass no longer would heat
Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place
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