JGD8130ADW Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

The grease filter was 20+ yrs old and the mesh was falling of the frame. I was very pleased to find this replacement filter (the first filter I received was damaged....placed a call to PartSelect and have a new one the next day). Can't beat service like that!! Thank you, June Patten

New burner and igniter.....actually it was very easy to to fix

Old filter allowed too much air flow causing exhaust fan to go off....installed new filter in exhaust chamber...release clip on old filter and install new filter (at an angle) in the exhaust box....clamp down clip on edge of filter and job is complete

I removed the protective grid over the filter and fan, turned the clip that held the filter in place and removed it. I placed the new intact filter for my antiquated Jenn-aire in its place, replaced the protective grid, and am happily continuing to cook on my functional cook top.Thank you.

We replaced 3 of 4 igniters on the stove top according to the previously submitted recommendations. Easy to do butt after putting one of the modules back together, we found one igniter still didn't function. We discovered the solution was to run the connecting wire under the gas tubing. Apparently it was compressed when it was over the top of the tube and not under it.

Unscrew the bottom cover, remove the old ignitor. Reverse the process to install. Hardest part was getting the bottom cover screws out because of rust. Otherwise, very simple.

The spark module pulses a stepped up voltage to all four burner sparks at the same time regardless of which burner you want to ignite. I read that this part lasts about 10 years. I don't cook much and it lasted 13 years. On my Magic Chef the part is behind the right side wall panel. Lift the range top,remove all the screws that hold the right side panel in place. This replacement can done without opening any gas fittings.

The available replacement switch is a bit too large to fit into the hole on the original face plate which must be kept as it also mounts the 4 burner dials and the “on” light.
A local machine shop was able to make the original hole large enough to accommodate the new switch. Total time to detach and reassemble the original face plate, less than 2 hours. Other than the new switch being black, it looks original. (The 2 smaller face plates provided with the new switch were not needed.)

I thought it was probably a bad ground due to corrosion on the igniter from spilled stuff over the years. I replaced the igniter and the burner. It did not work. I pulled out the multimeter to check for ground. It seems to be ok except at the bottom of the burner where it is supposed to be. Took it all apart and reassembled. Same thing. So, I swapped the dual burner assemblies around (right to left and left to right side). Bingo, both front & back, both sides worked. I still think there was a grounding issue. But all is good now. This project should have taken 15 minutes.

Removed burner pan screws,igniters, gas tubes & burners. Changed 2 igniters, removed rust & repainted ends of 2 of the tubes (heatproof paint). New burners were made a hair smaller than original but locked in O.K...Now, the hard part...disconnected all four tubes from gas valve assembly. (Had to shut off gas to house in order to remove main gas line to stovetop.) Had to remove valve box in order to remove/replace frozen valve. Unit is 25 years old, works as and looks new...Rust was caused by boil-overs.