CVE3400B Jenn-Air Cooktop - Instructions

Removed the cook top from the counter. Removed the switch housing and then the switch. Found a match and ordered. Part came in 2 business days. Once I put together the housing and connected the wire housing the burner worked perfect. The downdraft fan remained on. Placed a call to Jenn Air service and was asked to disconnect the fan switch. There must be some memory in the solid state portion of the switch. After a few mins I replaced the fan switch and hooked up the wiring. All worked fine.

The single burner switches were exactly the same as the old switches, and only took 10-15 minutes to replace two of them, including the time to remove the twelve sheet metal screws holding the glass top in place. The dual burner switch, however, was a totally different switch, and none of the wire colors matched any of the instructions. One set of instructions said there was no need to separate the paired red wires, while the instructions with the switch said they must be separated...ignoring the color code, and going by terminal numbers only, the first set of instructions led to the point of separating the paired red wires and attaching a female connector (which was not included in the package)to the red wire from the burner assembly and connecting that wire to the #2 terminal on the new switch. When the remaing red wire was attached to P2, there was barely enough slack in the wire to install the switch in it's proper orientation. All of this required numerous trips to the circuit breaker panel to test the connection. One of the jumper wires had a female connector which didn't fit any of the terminals on the burners or the switch. The instructions with the switch could very well confuse even a licensed electrician, as none of the burner connections are labeled.

Turn off power, remove tape from ducting, lift out cook top, remove glass frame, lift out glass cover, remove switch. Plug in elec. connection and install switch.it will only install one way which will put the knob on 180* off, I just scuffed off the dot. reinstall glass cover and frame, drop top back into place, re-tape duct and turn on power.

The dual burner on my range wasn't working—the inner, smaller portion would heat up, but the outer portion (for larger pots/pans) would not. I searched online and discovered that the element is easily replaced, and Yay! It was! I had difficulty finding the model number of my range, as it wasn't in any of the obvious, suggested places. I had to get help to slide my range away from the wall (which was the most difficult part of this project!), but in doing so, found a metal tab on the back of the range, near the top, that flipped up to reveal the model and serial #s! From that info, I was able to find and order the correct replacement element for the burner that wasn't working, and in less than an hour, had it fixed!

This was a repair project on a Jenn-Air built-in stovetop, which I had trouble finding instructions on how to disassemble. My particular problem was that three of the four burners had no temperature control. They were either on high or off - no such thing as simmer. This is opposite the problem described as a normal indicator of burner control failure. Usually the burner just goes dead. The hardest part of the repair was accessing the metal plate the burner controls are mounted on. First, I flipped the circuit breaker to the stovetop. It will shock the cr@#p out of you if you don't (I have experience from poking around down there without turning the power off). First, I had to remove the two burner inserts. The left one lifted from the top and the right one lifted from the bottom. Don't lift them past about 30 degrees. They are meant to lift up just enough to clear the tray well and then slide out. After removing the burner inserts, I was able to unscrew the eight fasteners holding down the stovetop rim. After removing this, I pulled out the trays underneath the burner inserts and put them aside without unscrewing the ground wires that attach them to the stovetop chassis. After removing the two screws holding on the active burner indicator lights, I was able to pull it up and lay it aside. Then I had to unscrew the two large brackets under the cabinet to loosen up the stovetop chassis so I could lift the front of it up an inch from the cabinet to enable me to unscrew two small metal screws that attach the metal plate holding the burner controls. After removing the two screws holding each burner control to the metal plate, I could unplug each of the five wires from the old controllers and plug them into the new controllers, in turn, before reattaching the new controllers to the metal plate. After repeating this procedure two more times, I reversed the process to reassemble the stovetop and voila, turned on the power and it worked perfectly. The result; a happy wife. For today.

I removed the glass top and replaced the switch unit successfully. Hardest part was removing the unit from the countertop and bracing the base with a 4x4.

Here is what I did with new switch (part#12002125) and it worked. Connect jumper to P1 and S1. Split the 2 red wires and put new spades on the ends, then put the red wire from left front switch on P2 and the other red wire from the right rear burner on 2. Blue goes to 4. Purple goes to 4A. Black goes to P1. Orange goes to S2.